# Staining Concrete



## Zoom-boing (Apr 19, 2010)

Has anyone ever stained concrete?  We're contemplating staining our 8 year old concrete patio and are looking for pointers.


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## JBeukema (Apr 19, 2010)

Concrete Blondes?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaJAxdGeZ4E"]YouTube - Concrete Blonde - Everybody Knows[/ame]

Are they protein=based stains?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qK3r9do126o"]YouTube - Deathstars - blood stains blondes*[/ame]


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## xsited1 (Apr 19, 2010)

I've had it done.  It's real popular in my neck of the woods.  I love the way it looks.  I didn't do it myself because I didn't want to deal with the chemicals and I'm extremely lazy.  Of course, yours will be outside so you'll have a lot more ventilation and there's less chance of passing out from the fumes and dying an agonizingly painful death.


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## Gatekeeper (Apr 19, 2010)

I tried stain, once, required 3 coats.Then I painted recently using BEHR outdoor with primer, one coat, after pressure washing. Excellent stuff! Got it at Home Depot, last paint job with the BEHR, was in 2002, same color without the primer.


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## uscitizen (Apr 19, 2010)

Sorry I have never stained concrete on purpose.


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## manu1959 (Apr 19, 2010)

power wash.....acid wash with murattic acid or compatible etching liquid recomended by the mfr of the concrete stain you are using.....stain the concrete and then seal it with thompsons....you can do designs and stuff....we use it all the time in our retail and restaurant work....

sometimes we sandblast a pattern into the concrete first....then stain....


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## eagleseven (Apr 19, 2010)

I tried it once. Took quite a bit of alcohol, probably too dangerous for a young child.

Not to mention soap to wash it off.


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 19, 2010)

manu1959 said:


> power wash.....acid wash with murattic acid or compatible etching liquid recomended by the mfr of the concrete stain you are using.....stain the concrete and then seal it with thompsons....you can do designs and stuff....we use it all the time in our retail and restaurant work....
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> sometimes we sandblast a pattern into the concrete first....then stain....



Was the concrete smooth (like a garage floor)?  Is that why you used the muriatic acid?  Our patio is 8 years old and in good shape but the stones are starting to show through, it has a few hairline cracks.  We power wash it every spring (and bits of it wear away when we do this), it was finished w/a broom finish, and is very porous.   We're trying to avoid the muriatic acid part . . . . would well-weathered concrete like ours stain well?

Hubs said to use a broom to apply; I say a sprayer to get the variegated look.   I'm wondering if spraying the first coat, followed by a broom to work the stain in, then spraying again will achieve that look?

We don't want a 'painted' look at all and the stones/cracks showing just add character so that's good.


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## manu1959 (Apr 19, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> manu1959 said:
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> > power wash.....acid wash with murattic acid or compatible etching liquid recomended by the mfr of the concrete stain you are using.....stain the concrete and then seal it with thompsons....you can do designs and stuff....we use it all the time in our retail and restaurant work....
> ...



the acid wash is like priming.....you can use more nature friendly primers....check with your manufacturer.....well weathered should stain well....you could always test a corner and then put a planter over it if it doesn't work....as for application style...we use a mop and a bucket.....then wipe it down with a dry mop.....broom gives streaks and a roller and spryer are too unifor for my tastes...think of it like staining wood....slop it on... let it sit then wipe it down....

i strongly recomend little test areas before you do it.....

worst that can happen is you blow it...then sand blast it and top it with a colored concrete toping called ardex.....http://www.ardex.de/com/int_common/index_en.htm.....very uniform looking though.... these guys have some cool decorative patterns and colors....Decorative Concrete from Scofield - The #1 Ranked Brand in Concrete Color, Concrete Texturing Tools, Concrete Stain, Concrete Color Hardeners and more.


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 20, 2010)

Ok, I thought I posted a response last night to manu's last post but I must  have hit preview instead.  <sigh>  

The hubs was leery of the acid stain and was leaning towards acrylic.  I don't really want a uniform look.  After discussing it and looking at many videos, the hubs is coming around to the acid stain.     It seems pretty straight forward.  

Question:  some videos/instructions I've seen have the stain being applied to dry concrete, others apply it to concrete that has been lightly wet with a mop (to keep a wet edge).  Which is better or does it not make any difference?


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## tigerbob (Apr 20, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> Has anyone ever stained concrete?  We're contemplating staining our 8 year old concrete patio and are looking for pointers.



Check out Concrete Network.  We found it to be a really good resource for finding a contractor and deciding how we wanted to proceed.  Link is to a page that provide hints on staining concrete.

Concrete Stains and Dyes - Buyer's Guide for Concrete Staining Supplies - The Concrete Network

Good luck.


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## froggy (Apr 21, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> manu1959 said:
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> > power wash.....acid wash with murattic acid or compatible etching liquid recomended by the mfr of the concrete stain you are using.....stain the concrete and then seal it with thompsons....you can do designs and stuff....we use it all the time in our retail and restaurant work....
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Rip out the old, place it again, and add in stain color to new concrete. Will be better investment.


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## Ringel05 (Apr 21, 2010)

froggy said:


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True.  The best way to stain concrete is to do it in the mixer that way when the inevitable chip and crack shows up it won't be as obvious.


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## froggy (Apr 21, 2010)

Ringel05 said:


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Most of the time it troweled in after concrete is placed, less expensive method.


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## Ringel05 (Apr 21, 2010)

froggy said:


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I know but I'll spend the extra to get it "Wright".


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## Ringel05 (Apr 21, 2010)

My other technique is to eat lots of asparagus and drink plenty of water.


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## Madeline (Apr 21, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> manu1959 said:
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> > power wash.....acid wash with murattic acid or compatible etching liquid recomended by the mfr of the concrete stain you are using.....stain the concrete and then seal it with thompsons....you can do designs and stuff....we use it all the time in our retail and restaurant work....
> ...



_Talk to a paint store manager or a consumer assistance office for a paint manufacturer.  You might also call a concrete supplier and talk with them.  Not all concrete stains would be compatible with a worn surface.  The stain works by interacting with calcium in the concrete, so too many stones could make the final product unattractive.

There are products available to bond a new concrete surface to an old one, and a new one can have the stain mixed into it as an ingredient.  This will usually give a more uniform look and the color will run throughout the new surface pour.

I'm a total HGTV slut.  Good luck with your project!
_


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 21, 2010)

Go with the Behr from Home Depot. Easy to use, no problems.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 21, 2010)

Behr technical assistance info. They have people who are glad to help and answer questions:


Behr Technical Assistance - US
Mon. - Fri., 5:00 am to 8:00 pm PST
Sat. - Sun., 6:00 am to 5:00 pm PST
1-800-854-0133 ext. 2


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## Ringel05 (Apr 21, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


> Go with the Behr from Home Depot. Easy to use, no problems.



Requires five coats to cover.  Thanks, no thanks.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 21, 2010)

Ringel05 said:


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Two coats here. No issues. 

But if you need a "wet look", you have to go with the stain, wait for it to dry, and then apply the special top coat to give it a wet look. So worst case it's 3 coats for a special look.


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## Ringel05 (Apr 21, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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I've had nothing but bad experiences with Behr in the past.  Their being chosen as the number 1 by Consumer Guide made me question CGs (not Cali Girl) credibility.  I'll stick with Sherwin Williams, never had a problem.
BTW I did a hell of a lot of remodel and handyman work for many, many years.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 21, 2010)

Ringel05 said:


> BTW I did a hell of a lot of remodel and handyman work for many, many years.



Same here, kinda. Albeit on a much larger scale.


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## Ringel05 (Apr 21, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


> Ringel05 said:
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My primary field of expertise (and where I always made the most money) was high end finish carpentry.  Everything else was a gap filler.  Not always a lot of people constantly looking for the products I offered at the price they were being offered. 
Most of the houses I worked on were 1.5 million dollar homes and up.  Found a niche and made some good money.


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 21, 2010)

Ok so we've been go over all of this the past few days.  

Not going with the acid stain as we're not confident that it will take as well as we'd like because the concrete is 8 years old.  Plus, the hazard of the acid . . . not too keen on it, despite the fact that the look is great.  If we had the bucks to pay someone to come in and do it maybe but . . . . we ain't got those bucks.  

Definitely not going with a solid color anything. . . I'd sooner leave it alone than to do that.

Did find semi-transparent stains at Depot and Lowes.   Quikcrete (not great color choices) and Behr (good color choices by past experience with Behr products makes us not want to use their stain.)    S/W carries H&C semi-transparent stain, water based and mimics the look of acid stain without the hazard.  It's eco-friendly (translation: don't have to fuss protecting lawn/plantings = less work for us).  They have a decent selection of colors and you can tweak those, depending on how much (if any) water you use to dilute it.  This is a great choice for us (although ok, I'd love to see how the acid would have turned out).

Now we're trying to decide do we want to do any type of pattern (taping off for grout lines, patterns, etc). or just do the whole thing in random.  Also trying to decide on the color palette . . . grey family or brown family.  Hmmmm . . . .  Will likely use two colors unless we do some kind of flagstone pattern, then maybe a pinch of third color.  

Oh and this has to be sealed when done (I think they all do).  We hate the wet look . . . not a fan of the glossy.  All our furniture is satin finished . . . so we'll look around for a natural or matte finish sealer.

Appreciate all the input.  We've been pouring over the youtube vids and reviewing different sites.  The only problem with doing a patio is that there's no real place we can practice techniques on.  I know from doing our kitchen that practicing something like this is better that just going in cold turkey.  We'll likely practice on the garage floor, even though it's a smooth finish.  At least we will get some idea of what it will look like. 

Here's a link to the H&C site, if anyone was interested.  This is their gallery page that shows a few of their colors in use.  We like the 2nd and 3rd colors a lot.  Brown family or grey family, decisions decisions.


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## dilloduck (Apr 21, 2010)

I'll run around on it barefoot and make cool patterns for ya !!


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 21, 2010)

dilloduck said:


> I'll run around on it barefoot and make cool patterns for ya !!



  Wait a minute . . . we have several stray  cats around here.  What if one runs across the patio when it's wet?  Ok, it would be kinda cute (but not nearly as cute as your mucklucks dill! )


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## dilloduck (Apr 21, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


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I need privacy tho-----ain't NO ONE seeing my bare feet


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 22, 2010)

I think we've decided on taping off 'grout' lines (using the existing concrete color as the 'grout') in a 'Wright' type pattern, below.  But that pattern would be the entire patio, not repeating this pattern on a smaller scale.  Smaller would be too busy; less is more.   We'll probably go with a dark gray and dark brown and dilute to get lighter shades.  On the patio start light then darken as desired.  Also, after this is done hubs is going to build a bbq 'garage' for the grill and charcoal bin.  I"ll stucco it then repeat the patio pattern/stain on it and we'll get a beautiful stone for the top counter/work surface part.  I think it will look pretty good and not be too difficult to do.  Actually, this seems like of the more fun house projects we've done.  Oh, and any extra stain we can use on the concrete planters we have (two in front of the shed and one that is ancient, it was my mom and dad's from the 60's), a round concrete fountain we made and a St. Francis statue.  I hope this turns out well . . . . I pop some before and after pics up.


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## CurveLight (Apr 22, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> Has anyone ever stained concrete?  We're contemplating staining our 8 year old concrete patio and are looking for pointers.




I have a small home improve biz and just finished a concrete project yesterday (8 x 24 feet with new additional pad) similar to what you're looking for.  This client does some stuff himself so two years ago he put behr stain on it while I was there doing other work, and I begged him not to use it because it's pure garbage.  Needless to say....he found out the hard way.  

While the pebbles coming through may have aesthetic value it's actually a warning sign of deterioration that can cause headaches.  Since you like the concrete color don't waste time or money staining it.  Here is what I suggest:

Power wash with an eco-friendly degreaser.  (if you don't have a chemical injector on your pressure washer then do a quick rinse with the pressure washer then use any generic garden pump or pour it directly on the deck and brush with a push broom to get an even application.)

Use nothing less than a 2500 psi unit because you need the power to both adequately clean and remove any loose concrete not readily available to the naked eye.

After you thoroughly rinse the deck get a gallon of quikrete bonding concentrate and put it on with a push broom.  After that has dried (in about two hours) apply a second coat.

Get quikrete sand/topping mix and resurface the entire deck about an inch thick.  (All you add is water instead of sand and water.)  There are several methods available for texture and there are no rules about what tools you can use.  

It will have the concrete color you want and be maintenance free for several years versus re-staining.  There are also several styles of flakes available to spread on the wet concrete to give the pebble appearance.  Good luck!


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## PixieStix (Apr 22, 2010)

What do you guys think of painting concrete? And is that something that is a good option to staining?


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 22, 2010)

PixieStix said:


> What do you guys think of painting concrete? And is that something that is a good option to staining?



From everything I've read painting concrete will just  lead to pealed painted concrete.  

You can stain concrete with a solid color and get the same look as painting but the stain will penetrate, rather than sit on top.  

The H&C product by Sherwin Williams (I'm not pushing the product, just using it as an example) has a semi-transparent stain that we like the look of but also a solid color stain.  Here's their home page link:  H&C Concrete - Home    and here's a link to their solid color concrete stain page:  H&C Concrete - Products - H&C® Concrete Stain Solid Color Water-based


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## Madeline (Apr 22, 2010)

PixieStix said:


> What do you guys think of painting concrete? And is that something that is a good option to staining?



I have painted concrete in a high-humidity environment.  The surface with a great deal of traffic was chipped within the year.  Overall, I don't recommend this...a great deal of work for little pay off and a painted surface is slick, prone to moss and easier to fall on.

Sherwin-Williams makes a product that can be used to "paint" around a pool or other surface where mold or moss might be a problem or where traction is desirable.  I can't remember what it's called, but it is sold in five gallon containers and is applied with a trowel.  It cost about $75 in 2000, but in my view, it was worth the extra expense and effort to apply as it was VERY permanent and ended forever any traction issues.  If you wish, I can find out what it was called.  I'm fairly certain it was a professional product, but I had no trouble applying it.


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## CurveLight (Apr 22, 2010)

PixieStix said:


> What do you guys think of painting concrete? And is that something that is a good option to staining?




Painting is the worst option.  If you want the best durability short of resurfacing then use a two part epoxy.  As someone pointed out, H+C has some good products but there is not a stain on the market I've ever seen worth the money and labor for concrete.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 22, 2010)

Ringel05 said:


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Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that what you did was small. What I meant was that I am on the other side of the business. I supply the materials to builders, handymen, construction companies city/county works projects etc. Thats what I meant by on a larger scale. It also involves visiting many sites to see how work is progressing and also testing new products offered by manufacturers along with my customers.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 22, 2010)

PixieStix said:


> What do you guys think of painting concrete? And is that something that is a good option to staining?



Only paint concrete if it is for a garage or shop type of application, where resistance to grease/oil is the main purpose. The thing is, a garage or shop is out of the weather, and takes much longer to peel.

Don't paint a patio. It WILL peel and crack rather quickly. Probably in about a year if you live higher than the mason-dixon line where temps regularly fall below freezing and snow/ice sits on the patio. After it peels, your only option is to strip it and do something else.


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## CurveLight (Apr 22, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


> PixieStix said:
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This is why suppliers work behind the counter and get caught up in text book fantasies, even if they make field visits which are usually just an excuse to sell more materials to builders or hacks who don't know what they are doing.

Don't ever paint a garage or shop floor.  Ever.  Use a two part epoxy.....usually runs about $75/gallon but it's worth it because you won't have to mess with it for years.  (Epoxies and paints are completely different products) Garages are usually not heated like homes and the mass in concrete (where ever it is) has an adverse effect on paint causing it to peel because the moisture pushes it up and off the concrete surface.

Moreover, vehicles are usually kept in garages and the weight in addition to the tires are a guaranteed way to rip the paint off.  Now add in other factors such as motor oil, lawn mowers, snow blowers, etc.  At the end of the day the surface of the floor has taken a hell of a beating from several different substances that all have toxic effects on paint.  The epoxy is ten times more durable and can be cleaned repeatedly without the breakdown in paints.  It also doesn't make much of a diff if the concrete floor is inside or out because it is always cooler than the air above it.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 22, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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Concrete paint for shop floors _*is*_ either a one part or two part epoxy ya moron.

1 part:
1-Part Epoxy Acrylic Concrete & Garage Floor Paint - Behr Paint

and 2 part:
Shop Rust-Oleum Professional Gallon Garage Floor Kit Gray PRO at Lowes.com

One part is easier to use, and is cheaper, but doesn't last as long. 2 part is better.

I don't stand behind a counter ya dope.


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## 007 (Apr 23, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> I think we've decided on taping off 'grout' lines (using the existing concrete color as the 'grout') in a 'Wright' type pattern, below.  But that pattern would be the entire patio, not repeating this pattern on a smaller scale.  Smaller would be too busy; less is more.   We'll probably go with a dark gray and dark brown and dilute to get lighter shades.  On the patio start light then darken as desired.  Also, after this is done hubs is going to build a bbq 'garage' for the grill and charcoal bin.  I"ll stucco it then repeat the patio pattern/stain on it and we'll get a beautiful stone for the top counter/work surface part.  I think it will look pretty good and not be too difficult to do.  Actually, this seems like of the more fun house projects we've done.  Oh, and any extra stain we can use on the concrete planters we have (two in front of the shed and one that is ancient, it was my mom and dad's from the 60's), a round concrete fountain we made and a St. Francis statue.  I hope this turns out well . . . . I pop some before and after pics up.



All this patio talk reminded me of one my buddy and I wired. Lots of low voltage, ground effects, spots, water fall, etc. Nothing was stained but, you mentioned "BBQ garage."


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## CurveLight (Apr 23, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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Your first link doesn't count because behr.....well basically.....is to paint what Budweiser is to beer.  Look at your second link.  Notice anything different?  The word "paint" doesn't appear anywhere on the box or in the description.  Know why?


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 23, 2010)

Behr is to paint as Budwiser is to beer.     Excellent analogy!


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## froggy (Apr 23, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> Behr is to paint as Budwiser is to beer.     Excellent analogy!



Have you decided whether your going to stain over old, or rip it out and start fresh?


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## Ringel05 (Apr 23, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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## manu1959 (Apr 23, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


> Ok, I thought I posted a response last night to manu's last post but I must  have hit preview instead.  <sigh>
> 
> The hubs was leery of the acid stain and was leaning towards acrylic.  I don't really want a uniform look.  After discussing it and looking at many videos, the hubs is coming around to the acid stain.     It seems pretty straight forward.
> 
> Question:  some videos/instructions I've seen have the stain being applied to dry concrete, others apply it to concrete that has been lightly wet with a mop (to keep a wet edge).  Which is better or does it not make any difference?



read the mfr recomendations and do test patces where you will be able to hide them under planters....


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## Ringel05 (Apr 23, 2010)

I still think my asparagus idea would work the best.....  If you're looking for a bright yellow finish.......


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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Really? You're fucking reaching. STFU and GBTW. I said that 1 part (behr) is cheap and doesn't last as long. Doesn't change the fact that painting concrete can be done using 1 part or 2 part epoxy.


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 24, 2010)

froggy said:


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Oh we're staining the old.  We have neither the money nor the inclination to rip out what's there.  If we wanted a lovely smooth look we'd do an overlay then stain that but we actually like the bit of stone that's showing from the old concrete.  Since we're using a semi-transparent stain that will help tone down some of the hairline cracks that are there.  But if it doesn't hide them very well that's ok too.  We kind of like the 'used' look.  lol


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 24, 2010)

manu1959 said:


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We were actually thinking about testing it on the garage floor.  I know, completely different texture and the stain will take differently but . . . . we need to get a sense of the color more than anything else.  The stain we're going to use, you can use it full strength or dilute it up to 4:1 with water.  So we want to play around with various strengths to get a general idea of what kind of shading/highlights we will end up with.  There's no good place to test it on the patio.  It's not a huge patio - the main part is about 14' x 28' and the side part (it cuts back from the main part about 6' or so; the patio mimics the shape of the house) is about 14' x 6'.   Anything we'd test I'd rather it be bigger than something a planter would hide anyway so we'll probably just give the garage test a shot.  I've done a good bit of decorative painting and mostly just want to get a feel for the sprayer and how the colors will look.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


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Wait until your neighbor is at work, and then test in on theirs. LOL 


(joking!)


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 24, 2010)

^    If the guy doesn't stop parking his SUV in front of our  house I just might!

We could test it on the sidewalks and piss off even more people!


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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You kind of ignored:

Look at your second link.  Notice anything different?  The word "paint" doesn't appear anywhere on the box or in the description.  Know why?

No worries...the STFU was awesome and since you actually recommended using Behr I doubt anyone is surprised you lack basic knowledge on the differences between 2 part epoxies and paints.......have a great day!


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## uscitizen (Apr 24, 2010)

The longest lasting concrete stain is used motor oil.


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


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You could use anchor cement or the mortar repairs straight out of the bottle for the hairline cracks.  Since you aren't looking for a smooth finish use a wallpaper roller or a similar tool to force the substance into the cracks.  It will help keep them from opening up and allow a prepped surface for the stain application.  You could also play with application layers for the worn look without worrying about surface integrity being compromised.  Good luck!


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

uscitizen said:


> The longest lasting concrete stain is used motor oil.



Rotfl!  True dat!


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 24, 2010)

uscitizen said:


> The longest lasting concrete stain is used motor oil.



Quite true!


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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WTF are you babbling about? You don't go say "I'm going to go epoxy my garage floor", you say "I'm going to go PAINT my garage floor".

Paint is a verb or a noun you fucking moron.

I have never had a problem with Behr paints or stains if the situation called for it.

I've come to the conclusion that you are nothing more than an attention starved douchebag. You don't care if the attention is positive or negative. In short, you are an attention whore. Here you are trying to pick a fight over a goddamn CONCRETE stain. Srsly, STFU and go seek professional help. This compulsion of seeking negative attention from others could be a sign of a serious psychological disorder.


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## froggy (Apr 24, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


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The trouble with overlay is it doesn't last.


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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This is my profession and product knowledge is key.  I never write up contracts where it is stated the garage floor will be painted.  Know why?  I never use paint on garage floors.  Your own link for the two part epoxy proved you wrong because the word "paint" never appears on the box or in the description.  I don't give a shit if you got embarrassed because we are in the same field and a good portion of my business is based on helping homeowners correct errors made by hacks like you.  Instead of admitting that maybe...just maybe....you were mistaken, you roll into a Dr. Phil moment to assuage the pains of your own insecurities.  This is a cool thread so this will be my last post to you on this matter.  Have a great day.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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Paint - verb.
_(tr)_ to apply (liquid) onto (a surface)  _her mother painted the cut with antiseptic_

You are an idiot attention whore


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

froggy said:


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It does if you use correct prep and materials.  The most common mistakes are to not clean the existing surfaces good enough and using only the topping mix.   Doing it the right way costs 2x as much but lasts years longer.


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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Just a quick clarification question.  Earlier you stated "paint IS epoxy" but now it seems that is not the case.  Are you still saying "paint IS epoxy?"


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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Once again, proving your inability to grasp simple English, huh? Try again idiot.

I said CONCRETE paint is either a 1 part or 2 part epoxy. I never said paint (as a whole) is epoxy.

Keep backpedaling, lying (last post 2 posts ago, huh) and attention whoring.


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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Quite correct you did claim concrete paint is epoxy but your Rust oleum link proves that wrong as it is not called paint at all.  So are you still claiming concrete paint is the same as epoxy even though your own link does not call it paint (concrete or otherwise)?  I asked before but you avoided the question.....do you know why it is not called paint?


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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Once again moron, when someone says that they are going to purchase concrete paint, or going to physically paint concrete, they are using a 1 part or 2 part epoxy.

People don't say hand me a Puffs. They say hand me a kleenex, and on the box of Puffs, guess what? It doesn't say kleenex anywhere on it. Idiot.

The fact that you have to resort to transparent semantic quibbles proves you have nothing, and are simply seeking more negative attention. So now we're what...3 posts? 4 posts? past the point where you said you weren't going to respond anymore. And yet here you are, cramming your foot further in your mouth.


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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

RadiomanATL said:


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How is it semantics to point out a manufacturer goes out of their way to not put "paint" on a 2 part epoxy floor kit?  You are quite correct I said I wouldn't respond anymore but I have kept it above board to stay on the issue.  It's obvious you don't know why they don't call it paint so we can leave it at that.


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## RadiomanATL (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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It's quite obvious that you are reduced to a semantic quibble because you have nothing else. You are out of ammo and have been shown to be incorrect multiple times. 

There's a reason when someone says they are going to paint their garage floor that normal people don't correct them and say "oh no, you are going to really epoxy it". That reason is because they are not complete douchebags.

You don't fall into the above group.


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 24, 2010)




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## CurveLight (Apr 24, 2010)

Zoom-boing said:


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As a suggestion for any other outdoor projects I strongly recommend avoiding paint altogether.  Go with a solid color stain because you won't have to deal with flaking and peeling which reduces prep time for doing it again by about 80%.  Woodscapes by Sherwin W is an awesome product and can be applied in temps as low as 35 degrees and they can custom match almost any color.


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## Zoom-boing (Apr 24, 2010)

CurveLight said:


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Agree 100%.  Thanks for the info!


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