# What are you looking for in the perfect knife...



## Missourian

"Made" my first knife this fall.  It's actually a reprofiled vintage 8" Ontario Slicer in 1095 carbon steel cut with a Dremel,  quenched often to retain heat-treatment.  The new profile is based on the Canadian Belt Knife.  The example pictured is my Cold Steel CBK.  While it is a very practical knife,  the CS is not full tanged,  and the Grohmann that it is based on it a minimum of $100 new.  So I made my own.  The handle I cut and shaped from seasoned oak with a stain that was made from boiled black walnut hulls.  The rivets are repurposed from the original Onterio Knife.








​
Example of the donor knife...






Now it's time to make something bigger,  a general purpose wilderness knife.

I'm considering a Nessmuk style knife.


*What qualities do you like in or what knife do you suggest for all around wilderness/survival use?*


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## Ringel05

*What are you looking for in the perfect knife.*

The ability to cut things........


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## waltky

Pointy...

... it should be sharp an' pointy.


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## tyroneweaver

if you took this over to ar15.com general discussion you would get some great answers.


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## Moonglow

I need a knife that never dulls,, and never pits..


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## jon_berzerk

the WASP


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## irosie91

have you consulted our very own  JIM BOWIE?


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## The Great Goose

Missourian said:


> "Made" my first knife this fall.  It's actually a reprofiled vintage 8" Ontario Slicer in 1095 carbon steel cut with a Dremel,  quenched often to retain heat-treatment.  The new profile is based on the Canadian Belt Knife.  The example pictured is my Cold Steel CBK.  While it is a very practical knife,  the CS is not full tanged,  and the Grohmann that it is based on it a minimum of $100 new.  So I made my own.  The handle I cut and shaped from seasoned oak with a stain that was made from boiled black walnut hulls.  The rivets are repurposed from the original Onterio Knife.
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> Example of the donor knife...
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> Now it's time to make something bigger,  a general purpose wilderness knife.
> 
> I'm considering a Nessmuk style knife.
> 
> 
> *What qualities do you like in or what knife do you suggest for all around wilderness/survival use?*


I don't know what's more worrying, this thread or your past.


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## yiostheoy

I am torn between jack knife and fixed blade.

I have a couple of each.

I like the discretion of a jack knife.

But if I got into a fight I would want a fixed blade -- faster to deploy.


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## yiostheoy

Moonglow said:


> I need a knife that never dulls,, and never pits..


Don't ever use it and then it won't dull.


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## yiostheoy

waltky said:


> Pointy...
> 
> ... it should be sharp an' pointy.


Long is more important.


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## Missourian

The Great Goose said:


> Missourian said:
> 
> 
> 
> "Made" my first knife this fall.  It's actually a reprofiled vintage 8" Ontario Slicer in 1095 carbon steel cut with a Dremel,  quenched often to retain heat-treatment.  The new profile is based on the Canadian Belt Knife.  The example pictured is my Cold Steel CBK.  While it is a very practical knife,  the CS is not full tanged,  and the Grohmann that it is based on it a minimum of $100 new.  So I made my own.  The handle I cut and shaped from seasoned oak with a stain that was made from boiled black walnut hulls.  The rivets are repurposed from the original Onterio Knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ​
> Example of the donor knife...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to make something bigger,  a general purpose wilderness knife.
> 
> I'm considering a Nessmuk style knife.
> 
> 
> *What qualities do you like in or what knife do you suggest for all around wilderness/survival use?*
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what's more worrying, this thread or your past.
Click to expand...



I apologize...it was not my intention to give you the Vapors.  Perhaps a good lie down will dispel them.


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## Missourian

yiostheoy said:


> I am torn between jack knife and fixed blade.
> 
> I have a couple of each.
> 
> I like the discretion of a jack knife.
> 
> But if I got into a fight I would want a fixed blade -- faster to deploy.




I am firmly in the fixed blade camp for my usage.  

Though if I was going to try to create a folder at my current skill level,  it would have to be based on the French Opinel.


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## Missourian

Going to try making a Kephart and a Nessmuk style knife out of an Ontario Old Hickory Butcher and Skinner.

Also working up some mosaic pins and black walnut scales.


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## Missourian




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## Missourian

I really dig this Nessmuk with a slightly offset handle (top)-


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## Missourian

Kephart articles of interest

Project Kephart: Part 1

Project Kephart: Part 2

Project Kephart: Part 3


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## Missourian

Timelapsed Kephart (from youtube)


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## Missourian

Good article on Kephart modeled knife:

Kephart Woodcraft


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## Missourian

Disassembly,  template and rough shaping:




 

Try to save a scale intact.







 







Cut with a dremel:



 


Keep the metal cool as you cut,  or you'll lose the temper:


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## Crixus

Missourian said:


> "Made" my first knife this fall.  It's actually a reprofiled vintage 8" Ontario Slicer in 1095 carbon steel cut with a Dremel,  quenched often to retain heat-treatment.  The new profile is based on the Canadian Belt Knife.  The example pictured is my Cold Steel CBK.  While it is a very practical knife,  the CS is not full tanged,  and the Grohmann that it is based on it a minimum of $100 new.  So I made my own.  The handle I cut and shaped from seasoned oak with a stain that was made from boiled black walnut hulls.  The rivets are repurposed from the original Onterio Knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ​
> Example of the donor knife...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to make something bigger,  a general purpose wilderness knife.
> 
> I'm considering a Nessmuk style knife.
> 
> 
> *What qualities do you like in or what knife do you suggest for all around wilderness/survival use?*




31/2" inch blade with a good strong drop point. I'm also a huge fan of those Russell type belt knives like the one you emulated. But as far as a preferred blade a small 3-4" fixed blade like the Baja 3.0 or ESEE3 will be fine.


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## Missourian

Crixus said:


> 31/2" inch blade with a good strong drop point. I'm also a huge fan of those Russell type belt knives like the one you emulated. But as far as a preferred blade a small 3-4" fixed blade like the Baja 3.0 or ESEE3 will be fine.



Excellent choices.

You'll like the knife I worked up last night,  an emulation of a Grohmann #4 Survival...that's what the Old Hickory Skinner I received wanted to be.  I got two,  so there still might be a Nessmuk in the future.


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## Missourian

Planning:



 
Templates:





Rough cut (Dremel): 



Cleaned up (1x30 belt sander):  The Kephart is going to get another cut on that line: 




Old Hickory Skinner reworked vs Grohmann #4 Survival:




Going to be awhile to continue,  have scales and liner on the way. 



 

Next...making some mosaic pins.


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## Crixus

Missourian said:


> Crixus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 31/2" inch blade with a good strong drop point. I'm also a huge fan of those Russell type belt knives like the one you emulated. But as far as a preferred blade a small 3-4" fixed blade like the Baja 3.0 or ESEE3 will be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent choices.
> 
> You'll like the knife I worked up last night,  an emulation of a Grohmann #4 Survival...that's what the Old Hickory Skinner I received wanted to be.  I got two,  so there still might be a Nessmuk in the future.
Click to expand...



I have done those Kind of muks  before. Really handy camp knife. I have one from scrapyard knives that's the bomb. That mud tread grip is really grippy.


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## Missourian

Dremel cut a piece of .022 brass for liner:



 



 

Ended up using poplar for scales instead of bubinga..wanted a lighter wood : 




Test glue up with black rubber gasket material:


 



Pattern and cut with scroll saw...but you could use a coping saw:




Scuffed up with 50 grit...glue,  glue,  glue 


 

 




Cleaned up a little...next up,  drill,  epoxy and pin:


 



Skipping the mosaic pins...needed to use contact cement for the rubber,  so need pins to hold everything nice and tight.


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## Missourian

Moonglow said:


> I need a knife that never dulls,, and never pits..


Now THAT's a perfect knife.


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## Missourian

Getting there.  That rubber gasket liner turned out OK...but the brass really doesn't show up well even in person.











 

Next...hand sanding...


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## Crixus

Maybe the brass will brighten up after a good sanding ?


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## Missourian

These did get finished...I think they turned out pretty well after a few coats of Watco Natural Oak Danish Oil...


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## westwall

Missourian said:


> Dremel cut a piece of .022 brass for liner:
> 
> View attachment 121985
> 
> View attachment 121986
> 
> Ended up using poplar for scales instead of bubinga..wanted a lighter wood :
> View attachment 121987
> 
> Test glue up with black rubber gasket material:
> View attachment 121988 View attachment 121989
> 
> Pattern and cut with scroll saw...but you could use a coping saw:
> View attachment 121990
> 
> Scuffed up with 50 grit...glue,  glue,  glue
> View attachment 121991 View attachment 121992 View attachment 121993
> 
> 
> Cleaned up a little...next up,  drill,  epoxy and pin:
> View attachment 121994 View attachment 121995
> 
> Skipping the mosaic pins...needed to use contact cement for the rubber,  so need pins to hold everything nice and tight.







Pretty cool!  I carry a Bagwell Bowie when i go camping, but my everyday knife is a Benchmade 940.  I also LOVE my Tapio Wirkkala Puukko


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## Crixus

Missourian said:


> Crixus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 31/2" inch blade with a good strong drop point. I'm also a huge fan of those Russell type belt knives like the one you emulated. But as far as a preferred blade a small 3-4" fixed blade like the Baja 3.0 or ESEE3 will be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent choices.
> 
> You'll like the knife I worked up last night,  an emulation of a Grohmann #4 Survival...that's what the Old Hickory Skinner I received wanted to be.  I got two,  so there still might be a Nessmuk in the future.
Click to expand...



You will likethat Muk. Super useful designe and the old hickory knives make a textbook nessmuk. I hav a MUK design from scrapyard knives. Ill get up some pics.


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## Crixus

Missourian said:


> These did get finished...I think they turned out pretty well after a few coats of Watco Natural Oak Danish Oil...
> 
> View attachment 134170 View attachment 134171




Super nice muk!


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## Missourian

Knocked out a sheath for this one...thinking about building one of these to work on the grind a little...


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## Missourian

Whipped up a simple version to do this knife... worked pretty well...


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## Missourian

Restoring pic from post #1.  Photobucket sucks...

Left Cold Steel Canadian Belt Knife,   right,  my copy.


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## Missourian

Missourian said:


> View attachment 121363



As you see above,  I have an extra Old Hickory Skinner.  They were an add-on item from Amazon for $7 each...so I got a couple.

I love the knife,  hate the handle and lack of guard...so...























Tomorrow,  solder and handle shaping.

Got a half hour to kill...here's the video I used to learn the basics of adding a simple guard...

...he uses a specialized mill to slot the brass.  I used a dremel with a cutting disc and cheap tiny needle files I found at walmart for $4 per six piece set.  You can see a couple in the pics.

The scales for the handle are purpleheart from Amazon... $9 with free shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018376F6O/?tag=ff0d01-20


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## Missourian

Soldered.

This was my first mechanical soldering,  took four tries to get it right.  I think the liquid flux wasn't very good quality...or I wasn't heating it enough.


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## Missourian

Epoxy curing...


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## Missourian

Oh yeah,  this is going to look pretty good...


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## Missourian

Rough shaping...



 

I learn something important about purpleheart...it does not like the any mechanical rough sanding...all rasp and sandpaper.


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## Missourian

Mostly finished,  the rivets are just laid in there.  Going to need another sanding from 220 to 1500 and there were a couple of voids in the epoxy...but aside form that,  it just needs to sit and oxidize for a few weeks to bring the purple back,  then lacquer.


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## westwall

Missourian said:


> View attachment 150987
> 
> Mostly finished,  the rivets are just laid in there.  Going to need another sanding from 220 to 1500 and there were a couple of voids in the epoxy...but aside form that,  it just needs to sit and oxidize for a few week to bring the purple back,  then lacquer.







That's looking very nice indeed!


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## Missourian

westwall said:


> Missourian said:
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 150987
> 
> Mostly finished,  the rivets are just laid in there.  Going to need another sanding from 220 to 1500 and there were a couple of voids in the epoxy...but aside form that,  it just needs to sit and oxidize for a few week to bring the purple back,  then lacquer.
> 
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> That's looking very nice indeed!
Click to expand...

Thanks.  It is turning more purple every day.


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## Missourian

Of course,  now I'm not nearly as captivated with the blade shape as I was when I started.  Time to reprofile.

Played around with a couple designs...













...but decided to clone a Svord 677.

Marked and cut with the dremel...





...and cleaned up with a bastard file.  I like this drop style point for a skinner.  Like the Nessmuk,  Kephart and Grohmann #1,  it allows for an anterior pelt cut that limits the risk of perforating the abdominal cavity.







(Video of skinning operation,  viewer discretion advised,  skip to 3:45)...



All done...with Svord 677 and before & after...


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## IsaacNewton

Uh, is this the 'first knife of the arsenal in your van' type of question or 'your first knife in the boyscouts' type thing. If it's the second I'd say a fold out boyscout's knife. If it's the first please tell us you don't like the deathshead moth.


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## Missourian

IsaacNewton said:


> Uh, is this the 'first knife of the arsenal in your van' type of question or 'your first knife in the boyscouts' type thing. If it's the second I'd say a fold out boyscout's knife. If it's the first please tell us you don't like the deathshead moth.



Good question.  Different knife designs are purpose specific.  If you're a sailor,  a sheepsfoot blade might be your perfect knife.  If you're a small game hunter,  a Canadian Belt Knife might be your perfect knife.  If you're into camping,  your perfect knife might be a compromise between a good vegetable slicer,  rope cutter and tinder maker,  like a Buck 119 Special or 192 Vanguard.  Do you need a pocket knife or a fixed blade?  Full tang? Do you need a knife design for a work related activity?  Do you need rust resistence of an alphabet steel,  440C or AUS 8...or will a carbon steel like 1095 or O1 serve your purpose?  Then you have edge retention vs ease of sharpening.

Lots of variables,  so likely each individual has a very personalized perfect knife.


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## Missourian

Sheath time-


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## Missourian




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## westwall

Missourian said:


> View attachment 152178
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That's a nice job on the sheath!


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## Missourian

westwall said:


> Missourian said:
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> That's a nice job on the sheath!
Click to expand...


Thanks.  Still learning,  but I am getting the hang of it.


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## westwall

Missourian said:


> westwall said:
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> Missourian said:
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> That's a nice job on the sheath!
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> Click to expand...
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> Thanks.  Still learning,  but I am getting the hang of it.
Click to expand...






It appears you get the hang of things very quickly!


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## Crixus

Forgot to post these. Scrapyard Muk with looooots of miles and an Opinel number 8. This is one of many I have owned through the years. It’s about 8 days old.


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## miketx

I found what I think is a great deal on this:






20 dollars from Amazon with plastic sheath that holds it well and it is sharp. I think a knife from 8 to 10 inches long is perfect for outdoors stuff. My everyday carry is this:





Had it over twenty years and it sharpens right up!


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## Crixus

miketx said:


> I found what I think is a great deal on this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20 dollars from Amazon with plastic sheath that holds it well and it is sharp. I think a knife from 8 to 10 inches long is perfect for outdoors stuff. My everyday carry is this:
> 
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> 
> Had it over twenty years and it sharpens right up!


 

Those sod busters are great knives. Real work horses. I’m assuming the top knife is an ESEE knockoff of the ESEE3. I really like that design. It’s small enough to not be an issue and the guys At ESEE have their heat treat down solid. That one is likely stainless. As long as you like it then you did awesome for $20 .


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## ding

1. Good steel
2. Good steel
3. Good steel


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