# 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever



## longknife

*There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*

1. Get your engine revs high.

2. Let the engine warm up.

3. Don’t run low on gas.

4. Check the coolant strengthen

5. Follow the service schedule

6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.

7. Maintain the battery

8. Use synthetic oil

9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.

10. Wheel alignment

11. Cam belt renewal

12, Renew the water pump

13. Check your tires

14. Replace fuel hoses

15. Air filters

Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever


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## DGS49

What about the exterior of the car?  Prevention of rust?  Protection of the paint?  Protection of rubber parts?

Get your car checked out by an expert from time to time, to catch things that are close to failure but have not failed yet.

Buy a Toyota.

Just kidding.


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## Godboy

longknife said:


> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever


Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.

Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine


----------



## Godboy

DGS49 said:


> What about the exterior of the car?  Prevention of rust?  Protection of the paint?  Protection of rubber parts?
> 
> Get your car checked out by an expert from time to time, to catch things that are close to failure but have not failed yet.
> 
> Buy a Toyota.
> 
> Just kidding.


I can give you 3 options for protecting the paint.

The first one is "ceramic coating". It isnt expensive and you can apply it yourself, but it protects against scratches and UV rays, and it makes your car shinier.

The second one is a clear bra. Those cost about $600-900, but they invisibly cover the grille and most of the hood where rocks will hit your car as you go down the road.

The third one is a vinyl wrap. Those are very expensive, but they protect the entire car. For about $2500-4000 (on average), you can make your car any color you want, with any design you want, that looks just like paint. Wraps are super easy to clean, and you dont have to wax or buff them. Those last 5-7 years (on average, sometimes longer), at which point you peel it off and the original paint under it is preserved as good as new.

Here are a couple examples of what a wrap looks like.


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## SandSquid

Had a clear bra on my Mazda, and it did a nice job of catching the rocks.  

As for warming up, yeah, warm up enough so your defrost is working to keep your windows clear, but don't gun it till you've been driving a while.  Some cars now have rev limiters that cut back until the engine is hot.  

I like the list, but it's funny how luck comes into play as well.  When I was 19 or so I wanted to get a car (just moved to Colorado, so my motorcycle was no longer a year round vehicle).  Anyways, I picked up a 1989 Chevy Corsica from my buddy for 300 bucks to get around until I could get out to Denver to go car shopping.  Had 90k miles on it, not known for reliability.   Anyways, I just kept driving it and putting off car shopping and likely a car payment as long as I could.  But I didn’t want to put money into the Corsica.  So once a year, about 30k miles I’d change the oil.  And it didn't leak or burn oil, so I wouldn't add to it either.  Didn’t treat it well, only replaced things if they were becoming dangerous (tires/brakes/lights).  Drove it with my foot to the floor all the time.  Had a sparkplug foul up and end up thinking the cylinder flooded, because I replaced it and was running on 3 cylinders for a couple weeks and just when I'd given up hope, all of a sudden I noticed the car wasn’t completely gutless anymore (just back to old 80’s chevy 4 banger gutless).  It wouldn’t die.  Took it cross country to Florida a half dozen times.  I remember driving through a road that was flooded over.   And it died in the middle of the road (exhaust underwater).  A couple buddies were laughing at us as water was seeping in the bottom of the door.   Turned the key again, it started right up and drove on. 

Anyways did that for 3 years.  Car had 180k miles on it at that point.  Moved, and sold it to my roommate who offered $500 for it as a commuter since he knew it wouldn’t die.   I wouldn’t take more than what I paid.   Came back a couple years later.  He was still treating it like crap, and it was at 250k miles.


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## longknife

I owned a 3 cylinder  Beetle that just wouldn't quit no matter what.


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## SandSquid

longknife said:


> I owned a 3 cylinder  Beetle that just wouldn't quit no matter what.



I always liked those old beetles.  Simple and if you wanted you could swap a porshe engine in them.  


So the funny part of this is that spark plug fouled out on my way up to Winter Park Colorado with five people in the car.  Trying to climb I-70 on a mountain pass with 3 cylinders loaded with people and a full trunk.   First gear was the only gear with enough torque to accelerate. Lol.  

We found an AutoZone part way up where I swapped out the spark plug but it wouldn't fire for another few weeks.  

But you almost wish you could tell which cars were invincible.  Honestly I wish I still had that one to get around in winter.  

Although I'm probably remembering it too fondly.  While it wouldn't stop driving, the e-brake didn't work. The driver side window would just completely drop into the door if you started to roll it down, and you'd have to pull it back up by hand and roll up the window to hold it in place.  The ignition key went out but in the steering column was a little lever I could push to start it (between that and the window I didn't need keys except to get in the trunk).  It got hit by one of the worst hail storms I've ever seen, and it showed.  The air conditioner had no juice left.  And I drove it for a full winter with no heat because the guy I bought it from said it needed an expensive fix.  And when I pulled the fuse from the heater (since I didn't need it) to replace the cigarette lighter fuse for my CD player into the tape adapter, it was blown and found out it was a 15 cent fix.


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## Dick Foster

longknife said:


> I owned a 3 cylinder  Beetle that just wouldn't quit no matter what.


We had a four cylinder, it was a 71 or something. The last year beetles were all built in the Fatherland.  We restored it once but it finally uglyed out. Not that it wore out, we just got tired of it. My wife interviewed prospective buyers like they were adopting a child or something. They had to have a garage, no teenagers in the family, promised not to hack it up or modify it, promise to rigorously maintain it, etc. etc. It went to a good home in excellent shape. Once in a while my wife says she wishes we still had it.


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## Sunni Man

DGS49 said:


> *Buy a Toyota*.


Toyota's are all that I buy and drive. (I only buy the cars that the engines have a timing chain, not a timing belt)

Regular oil changes with Mobile 1 synthetic, and scheduled coolant and transmission fluid changes.

Besides, tires, brake pads, air filter and cabin filter, battery replacement, and windshield wipers when needed, I've never had a repair problem or breakdown.  ...     ..


----------



## miketx

Godboy said:


> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
Click to expand...

What changed in the engines?


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## Sunni Man

miketx said:


> What changed in the engines?


The switch from old school carburetors to modern computer controlled fuel injection systems on the engines.  ...


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## boedicca

Rachel and Chariot:


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## miketx

Sunni Man said:


> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> 
> 
> The switch from old school carburetors to modern computer controlled fuel injection systems on the engines.  ...
Click to expand...

Carburetor engines run richer and are more prone to excess fuel damage.


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## Sunni Man

miketx said:


> Carburetor engines run richer and are more prone to excess fuel damage.


True.

While fuel injection adjusts for engine temperature, ambient air temp, and octane of the gasoline being used.   ...


----------



## Godboy

miketx said:


> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
Click to expand...

It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.

Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.


----------



## Sunni Man

I strongly suggest that anyone who is interested in all kinds of cars, and car maintenance, to watch the YouTube videos by Scotty Kilmer.

He breaks the subject down into informative short 5 min videos geared for the layman in simple terms.  ...


----------



## SandSquid

Sunni Man said:


> DGS49 said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Buy a Toyota*.
> 
> 
> 
> Toyota's are all that I buy and drive. (I only buy the cars that the engines have a timing chain, not a timing belt)
> 
> Regular oil changes with Mobile 1 synthetic, and scheduled coolant and transmission fluid changes.
> 
> Besides, tires, brake pads, air filter and cabin filter, battery replacement, and windshield wipers when needed, I've never had a repair problem or breakdown.  ...     ..
Click to expand...


I'm tempted for Toyota's.  I always liked the Tacoma's, and the 4-runner looks fun (though I have a Wrangler for off-roading so that kind of takes away it's best reason).   The Tundra's I think are due for an update now.    

But some of the best standard safety options, preventative maintenance for the first few years, and Toyota quality.   If you ever get a chance, check out a Toyota plant.   Really impressive.  

Wish they'd do more in the sports car world again, but they are kinda getting there.   And hey, a 300+Hp Camry is impressive.


----------



## Moonglow

longknife said:


> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever


Number one is don't drive it.


----------



## Moonglow

Sunni Man said:


> I strongly suggest that anyone who is interested in all kinds of cars, and car maintenance, to watch the YouTube videos by Scotty Kilmer.
> 
> He breaks the subject down into informative short 5 min videos geared for the layman in simple terms.  ...


I am too advanced for that............................................................


----------



## HereWeGoAgain

Sunni Man said:


> DGS49 said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Buy a Toyota*.
> 
> 
> 
> Toyota's are all that I buy and drive. (I only buy the cars that the engines have a timing chain, not a timing belt)
> 
> Regular oil changes with Mobile 1 synthetic, and scheduled coolant and transmission fluid changes.
> 
> Besides, tires, brake pads, air filter and cabin filter, battery replacement, and windshield wipers when needed, I've never had a repair problem or breakdown.  ...     ..
Click to expand...


  Depending on the toyota you might get a chain or a belt.


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## Moonglow

I had a 1977 Toyota...Danced down the road.


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## HereWeGoAgain

Sunni Man said:


> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> 
> 
> The switch from old school carburetors to modern computer controlled fuel injection systems on the engines.  ...
Click to expand...


  Fuel injection is the shit!!!!
Especially on off road vehicles!!


----------



## HereWeGoAgain

miketx said:


> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
Click to expand...


  Much closer tolerances held in the engine parts than in the old days mainly.


----------



## Sunni Man

HereWeGoAgain said:


> Depending on the toyota you might get a chain or a belt.


It's simple to google if your particular engine, regardless of brand, to see if it has a timing belt or chain.

I like timing chains because they will generally last the lifetime of the car.

Whereas, timing belts have a scheduled replacement service that is rather expensive. Plus, if your car has an interference engine, you risk catastrophic damage if the belt breaks while driving. So timing belt replacement is critical.  ...


----------



## SandSquid

HereWeGoAgain said:


> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Much closer tolerances held in the engine parts than in the old days mainly.
Click to expand...


I thought it was actually newer cars use MORE fuel when it's cold.  That since it is cold less gas evaporates for the correct vapor ratio, so more fuel is added until it warms up.  And the worry is that excess fuel not burning up as vapor is may run down the cylinders and "clean" away the oil.


----------



## Sunni Man

SandSquid said:


> I thought it was actually newer cars use MORE fuel when it's cold.  That since it is cold less gas evaporates for the correct vapor ratio, so more fuel is added until it warms up.  And the worry is that excess fuel not burning up as vapor is may run down the cylinders and "clean" away the oil.


The only engine where that might be a concern is the GDI (gasoline direct inject) engine in some of the newer cars.

Personally, I would never own any car that has a GDI engine, because of the tendency of the injected gasoline diluting the oil and causing premature engine failure.  ...


----------



## Oddball

Godboy said:


> DGS49 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What about the exterior of the car?  Prevention of rust?  Protection of the paint?  Protection of rubber parts?
> 
> Get your car checked out by an expert from time to time, to catch things that are close to failure but have not failed yet.
> 
> Buy a Toyota.
> 
> Just kidding.
> 
> 
> 
> I can give you 3 options for protecting the paint.
> 
> The first one is "ceramic coating". It isnt expensive and you can apply it yourself, but it protects against scratches and UV rays, and it makes your car shinier.
> 
> The second one is a clear bra. Those cost about $600-900, but they invisibly cover the grille and most of the hood where rocks will hit your car as you go down the road.
> 
> The third one is a vinyl wrap. Those are very expensive, but they protect the entire car. For about $2500-4000 (on average), you can make your car any color you want, with any design you want, that looks just like paint. Wraps are super easy to clean, and you dont have to wax or buff them. Those last 5-7 years (on average, sometimes longer), at which point you peel it off and the original paint under it is preserved as good as new.
> 
> Here are a couple examples of what a wrap looks like.
Click to expand...

None of which prevents road salt, spread about liberally in snowy localities, from getting into every crevice and rusting the  steel parts.


----------



## Oddball

SandSquid said:


> HereWeGoAgain said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Much closer tolerances held in the engine parts than in the old days mainly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I thought it was actually newer cars use MORE fuel when it's cold.  That since it is cold less gas evaporates for the correct vapor ratio, so more fuel is added until it warms up.  And the worry is that excess fuel not burning up as vapor is may run down the cylinders and "clean" away the oil.
Click to expand...

Cold air is more dense, requiring more fuel for a proper fuel/O2 ratio.


----------



## Sunni Man




----------



## miketx

Godboy said:


> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.
> 
> Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.
Click to expand...

That's backwards i'm afraid. Computer cars don't need a choke, they use the intake air temperature to determine fuel air mixture and they do that by controling the on time of the injectors. This OP article doesn't hold much water.


----------



## Godboy

miketx said:


> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.
> 
> Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's backwards i'm afraid. Computer cars don't need a choke, they use the intake air temperature to determine fuel air mixture and they do that by controling the on time of the injectors. This OP article doesn't hold much water.
Click to expand...

Google it. Youll find every expert saying the same thing. I was shocked when i first heard it, but it turns out that is the case.


----------



## miketx

Godboy said:


> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> longknife said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.
> 
> Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's backwards i'm afraid. Computer cars don't need a choke, they use the intake air temperature to determine fuel air mixture and they do that by controling the on time of the injectors. This OP article doesn't hold much water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Google it. Youll find every expert saying the same thing. I was shocked when i first heard it, but it turns out that is the case.
Click to expand...

just because google makes a claim on it does not mean it is true. I have worked on this crap for nearly 40 years. Been to GM schools Chrysler schools and others. Modern cars run better than they ever have and require less maintenance.


----------



## HereWeGoAgain

Sunni Man said:


> HereWeGoAgain said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the toyota you might get a chain or a belt.
> 
> 
> 
> It's simple to google if your particular engine, regardless of brand, to see if it has a timing belt or chain.
> 
> I like timing chains because they will generally last the lifetime of the car.
> 
> Whereas, timing belts have a scheduled replacement service that is rather expensive. Plus, if your car has an interference engine, you risk catastrophic damage if the belt breaks while driving. So timing belt replacement is critical.  ...
Click to expand...


     I know all that.
  The Wife's 2001 4runner had the belt. You pay for the first replacement at 90k miles and Toyota will replace all subsequent belts for free.


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## sparky

longknife said:


> *There are only 15 in the article but they make a whole lot of sense. So you don’t have to go to the link, here is the short version:*
> 
> 1. Get your engine revs high.
> 
> 2. Let the engine warm up.
> 
> 3. Don’t run low on gas.
> 
> 4. Check the coolant strengthen
> 
> 5. Follow the service schedule
> 
> 6. Don’t delay checking out strange stuff.
> 
> 7. Maintain the battery
> 
> 8. Use synthetic oil
> 
> 9. Use premium Pflege = to rubber doors and window seals.
> 
> 10. Wheel alignment
> 
> 11. Cam belt renewal
> 
> 12, Renew the water pump
> 
> 13. Check your tires
> 
> 14. Replace fuel hoses
> 
> 15. Air filters
> 
> Full explanations @ 17 Ways to Make Your Car Last Forever




I see a gloveless 'mechanic' with clean hands

~S~


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## Godboy

miketx said:


> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> 
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.
> 
> Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's backwards i'm afraid. Computer cars don't need a choke, they use the intake air temperature to determine fuel air mixture and they do that by controling the on time of the injectors. This OP article doesn't hold much water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Google it. Youll find every expert saying the same thing. I was shocked when i first heard it, but it turns out that is the case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> just because google makes a claim on it does not mean it is true. I have worked on this crap for nearly 40 years. Been to GM schools Chrysler schools and others. Modern cars run better than they ever have and require less maintenance.
Click to expand...

Its not google, its "popular mechanics", "car and driver", etc., all automotives experts say the same thing. Literally all of them.


----------



## miketx

Godboy said:


> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> 
> 
> It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.
> 
> Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's backwards i'm afraid. Computer cars don't need a choke, they use the intake air temperature to determine fuel air mixture and they do that by controling the on time of the injectors. This OP article doesn't hold much water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Google it. Youll find every expert saying the same thing. I was shocked when i first heard it, but it turns out that is the case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> just because google makes a claim on it does not mean it is true. I have worked on this crap for nearly 40 years. Been to GM schools Chrysler schools and others. Modern cars run better than they ever have and require less maintenance.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its not google, its "popular mechanics", "car and driver", etc., all automotives experts say the same thing. Literally all of them.
Click to expand...

I know, but to put it in perspective all the democrats say the same thing too.   Also on the first shuttle launch the back up computer disagreed with all the other computers and guess what?


----------



## Sunni Man

HereWeGoAgain said:


> The Wife's 2001 4runner had the belt. You pay for the first replacement at 90k miles and Toyota will replace all subsequent belts for free.


You must have gotten a special warranty package with that particular car dealer, because I've never heard of that before.

Also some brands scheduled timing belt replacement interval is every 60,000 miles or 7 years, which ever comes first, and you pay for it.  ...


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## Picaro

Pretty much agree with the list. I get around 25 plus years out of a vehicle, and it's the interiors, door panels, dashboard switches, etc. that wear out and make me want to get rid of them for the most part. My Dodge truck is a 2001 and I still have a problem checking the oil because it's so clean I have a hard time seeing it.


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## jwoodie

Fancy options and electronic gizmos will get you before the power train wears out.


----------



## Syriusly

miketx said:


> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> miketx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Godboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Number 2 is wrong, believe it or not. It used to be that you wanted to let the engine warm up before driving it, but that changed with modern engines. If you do a google search for "how long should i let my car warm up", youll find a million hits that all say the same thing... "never let your car warm up at idle for more than 30 seconds, ESPECIALLY during winter". All the experts agree that the best way to warm up your car is by driving it.
> 
> Warming Up Your Car in the Cold Just Harms the Engine
> 
> 
> 
> What changed in the engines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has something to do with the computer regulating the fuel intake (it dumps too much in when its cold). Old cars had a choke, new cars dont.  The end result is you get carbon build up in the combustion chamber if you let it idle too long when its cold outside.
> 
> Im no expert, but that is my rudimentary understanding of it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's backwards i'm afraid. Computer cars don't need a choke, they use the intake air temperature to determine fuel air mixture and they do that by controling the on time of the injectors. This OP article doesn't hold much water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Google it. Youll find every expert saying the same thing. I was shocked when i first heard it, but it turns out that is the case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> just because google makes a claim on it does not mean it is true. I have worked on this crap for nearly 40 years. Been to GM schools Chrysler schools and others. Modern cars run better than they ever have and require less maintenance.
Click to expand...


I am no mechanic- but I have owned cars that were made in the '30's, '50's, '60's, 70's, and 90's.

Not a single doubt in my mind that the more modern cars run better. 

Hell my current car has 366,000 miles- i put a quart of oil in it about every other month. Cars made in the '60's- well we would just buy a case of oil at a time. 

That isn't to say that older cars didn't have their advantages- but if I want something that will run more than 200,000 miles- I want a more modern car.


----------



## gipper

SandSquid said:


> Had a clear bra on my Mazda, and it did a nice job of catching the rocks.
> 
> As for warming up, yeah, warm up enough so your defrost is working to keep your windows clear, but don't gun it till you've been driving a while.  Some cars now have rev limiters that cut back until the engine is hot.
> 
> I like the list, but it's funny how luck comes into play as well.  When I was 19 or so I wanted to get a car (just moved to Colorado, so my motorcycle was no longer a year round vehicle).  Anyways, I picked up a 1989 Chevy Corsica from my buddy for 300 bucks to get around until I could get out to Denver to go car shopping.  Had 90k miles on it, not known for reliability.   Anyways, I just kept driving it and putting off car shopping and likely a car payment as long as I could.  But I didn’t want to put money into the Corsica.  So once a year, about 30k miles I’d change the oil.  And it didn't leak or burn oil, so I wouldn't add to it either.  Didn’t treat it well, only replaced things if they were becoming dangerous (tires/brakes/lights).  Drove it with my foot to the floor all the time.  Had a sparkplug foul up and end up thinking the cylinder flooded, because I replaced it and was running on 3 cylinders for a couple weeks and just when I'd given up hope, all of a sudden I noticed the car wasn’t completely gutless anymore (just back to old 80’s chevy 4 banger gutless).  It wouldn’t die.  Took it cross country to Florida a half dozen times.  I remember driving through a road that was flooded over.   And it died in the middle of the road (exhaust underwater).  A couple buddies were laughing at us as water was seeping in the bottom of the door.   Turned the key again, it started right up and drove on.
> 
> Anyways did that for 3 years.  Car had 180k miles on it at that point.  Moved, and sold it to my roommate who offered $500 for it as a commuter since he knew it wouldn’t die.   I wouldn’t take more than what I paid.   Came back a couple years later.  He was still treating it like crap, and it was at 250k miles.


I had a similar experience. I bought a 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 two door hard top with the rocket 350 motor from the original owner in 1982, when I graduated college. What a great car. A boat really, but it could go. Original owner cried when I bought it. She still loved the car.

It had about 80k on the clock when I got it. Drove it five years then sold it to a good buddy for $500. He abused the car. Never changed the oil. It still ran like a top. He then sold it to another buddy who later sold it to another buddy. All of them knew what a great car it was, when I owned it.

It must have had 250k miles on it when it went to the auto graveyard.


----------



## miketx

gipper said:


> SandSquid said:
> 
> 
> 
> Had a clear bra on my Mazda, and it did a nice job of catching the rocks.
> 
> As for warming up, yeah, warm up enough so your defrost is working to keep your windows clear, but don't gun it till you've been driving a while.  Some cars now have rev limiters that cut back until the engine is hot.
> 
> I like the list, but it's funny how luck comes into play as well.  When I was 19 or so I wanted to get a car (just moved to Colorado, so my motorcycle was no longer a year round vehicle).  Anyways, I picked up a 1989 Chevy Corsica from my buddy for 300 bucks to get around until I could get out to Denver to go car shopping.  Had 90k miles on it, not known for reliability.   Anyways, I just kept driving it and putting off car shopping and likely a car payment as long as I could.  But I didn’t want to put money into the Corsica.  So once a year, about 30k miles I’d change the oil.  And it didn't leak or burn oil, so I wouldn't add to it either.  Didn’t treat it well, only replaced things if they were becoming dangerous (tires/brakes/lights).  Drove it with my foot to the floor all the time.  Had a sparkplug foul up and end up thinking the cylinder flooded, because I replaced it and was running on 3 cylinders for a couple weeks and just when I'd given up hope, all of a sudden I noticed the car wasn’t completely gutless anymore (just back to old 80’s chevy 4 banger gutless).  It wouldn’t die.  Took it cross country to Florida a half dozen times.  I remember driving through a road that was flooded over.   And it died in the middle of the road (exhaust underwater).  A couple buddies were laughing at us as water was seeping in the bottom of the door.   Turned the key again, it started right up and drove on.
> 
> Anyways did that for 3 years.  Car had 180k miles on it at that point.  Moved, and sold it to my roommate who offered $500 for it as a commuter since he knew it wouldn’t die.   I wouldn’t take more than what I paid.   Came back a couple years later.  He was still treating it like crap, and it was at 250k miles.
> 
> 
> 
> I had a similar experience. I bought a 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 two door hard top with the rocket 350 motor from the original owner in 1982, when I graduated college. What a great car. A boat really, but it could go. Original owner cried when I bought it. She still loved the car.
> 
> It had about 80k on the clock when I got it. Drove it five years then sold it to a good buddy for $500. He abused the car. Never changed the oil. It still ran like a top. He then sold it to another buddy who later sold it to another buddy. All of them knew what a great car it was, when I owned it.
> 
> It must have had 250k miles on it when it went to the auto graveyard.
Click to expand...

People who don't change the oil are animals.


----------



## HereWeGoAgain

miketx said:


> gipper said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SandSquid said:
> 
> 
> 
> Had a clear bra on my Mazda, and it did a nice job of catching the rocks.
> 
> As for warming up, yeah, warm up enough so your defrost is working to keep your windows clear, but don't gun it till you've been driving a while.  Some cars now have rev limiters that cut back until the engine is hot.
> 
> I like the list, but it's funny how luck comes into play as well.  When I was 19 or so I wanted to get a car (just moved to Colorado, so my motorcycle was no longer a year round vehicle).  Anyways, I picked up a 1989 Chevy Corsica from my buddy for 300 bucks to get around until I could get out to Denver to go car shopping.  Had 90k miles on it, not known for reliability.   Anyways, I just kept driving it and putting off car shopping and likely a car payment as long as I could.  But I didn’t want to put money into the Corsica.  So once a year, about 30k miles I’d change the oil.  And it didn't leak or burn oil, so I wouldn't add to it either.  Didn’t treat it well, only replaced things if they were becoming dangerous (tires/brakes/lights).  Drove it with my foot to the floor all the time.  Had a sparkplug foul up and end up thinking the cylinder flooded, because I replaced it and was running on 3 cylinders for a couple weeks and just when I'd given up hope, all of a sudden I noticed the car wasn’t completely gutless anymore (just back to old 80’s chevy 4 banger gutless).  It wouldn’t die.  Took it cross country to Florida a half dozen times.  I remember driving through a road that was flooded over.   And it died in the middle of the road (exhaust underwater).  A couple buddies were laughing at us as water was seeping in the bottom of the door.   Turned the key again, it started right up and drove on.
> 
> Anyways did that for 3 years.  Car had 180k miles on it at that point.  Moved, and sold it to my roommate who offered $500 for it as a commuter since he knew it wouldn’t die.   I wouldn’t take more than what I paid.   Came back a couple years later.  He was still treating it like crap, and it was at 250k miles.
> 
> 
> 
> I had a similar experience. I bought a 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 two door hard top with the rocket 350 motor from the original owner in 1982, when I graduated college. What a great car. A boat really, but it could go. Original owner cried when I bought it. She still loved the car.
> 
> It had about 80k on the clock when I got it. Drove it five years then sold it to a good buddy for $500. He abused the car. Never changed the oil. It still ran like a top. He then sold it to another buddy who later sold it to another buddy. All of them knew what a great car it was, when I owned it.
> 
> It must have had 250k miles on it when it went to the auto graveyard.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> People who don't change the oil are animals.
Click to expand...


   I will say the Wife was hardly religious about it.
But then she drove a 4Runner. It still ran fine when she traded it in after 275k for a new Tacoma.


----------



## Likkmee

275 k. When I restored it at 165 it had the 1976 radiator cap still intact.
The metal ? Not so much. A couple sheets of stainless and 6061 doors later
Yeah. Made the wheels too. Lotta work. 
10 ply BIAS ply tyrez. Try and find those   
30 mpg---nasty diesel


----------



## Moonglow

Likkmee said:


> 275 k. When I restored it at 165 it had the 1976 radiator cap still intact.
> The metal ? Not so much. A couple sheets of stainless and 6061 doors later
> Yeah. Made the wheels too. Lotta work.
> 10 ply BIAS ply tyrez. Try and find those
> 30 mpg---nasty diesel View attachment 602767


I buy tires of 10 ply BIAS from Amazon.


----------



## Likkmee

Moonglow said:


> I buy tires of 10 ply BIAS from Amazon.


Cool. Normal sized like those ( 31.5 x 9.5 x15) or big truck stuff ?
Those are BF Goodrich and made only for the power company here.
I ummmm.I "liberated" those 4. I got a buddy that spins wrenches there. They have a couple 40 footers slap full


----------



## Moonglow

Likkmee said:


> Cool. Normal sized like those ( 31.5 x 9.5 x15) or big truck stuff ?
> Those are BF Goodrich and made only for the power company here.
> I ummmm.I "liberated" those 4. I got a buddy that spins wrenches there. They have a couple 40 footers slap full


Just for my truck and the rough roads around here.


----------

