# Post your car questions here



## JustTheFacts

I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.


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## Desperado

Thanks I will keep that in mind...
When I have some more time, may have to consult you about a 2002 Taurus with an idle problem.


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## mjollnir

Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?


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## Warrior102

JustTheFacts said:


> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.



Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
Dumbest move ever


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## JustTheFacts

mjollnir said:


> Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?



For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door






Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.


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## Sunni Man

I change spark plugs and PCV valve about every 30,000 miles at my home.

Is that considered a full tune up in todays cars?


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## TNHarley

What about sport bikes?


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## Warrior102

Can you answer questions regarding HD Ultra Classics?


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## TNHarley

Harleys do not mess up! lol You got a problem, bro?


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## JustTheFacts

Warrior102 said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
> Dumbest move ever
Click to expand...


I'm not sure why you think it's the dumbest move ever. They are essentially  the same engine. The 302 has a slightly longer stroke but used the same pistons as the 289. They accomplished this by using shorter connecting rods. 

This resulted in an engine which was slightly higher revving and thus more street able than the 289.

The engines are so similar in fact that in late 1967 early 1968 Ford didn't even know for sure which engines were going in which cars. Many models listed as "302" are actually 289.


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## Dreamy

JustTheFacts said:


> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.



Is there any car or truck you would tell others to avoid purchasing because their maintenance is costly or their repairs/troubles are excessive?


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## JustTheFacts

Sunni Man said:


> I change spark plugs and PCV valve about every 30,000 miles at my home.
> 
> Is that considered a full tune up in todays cars?



What do you drive? The fact is if you are needing to change spark plugs on anything built within the last 6 years or so every 30K miles you are either over doing your routine maintenance or you have something wrong which is fouling plugs early.

Most new engines can easily go 100K miles between plug changes if a person uses a quality brand platinum or iradium tipped spark plug.

And really normally the plugs aren't even fouled at 100K , the problem however is if you go much longer than that the coil to plug boot melts to the spark plug and then you end up needing to buy coils to replace the ones you've destroyed trying to remove them.

Yes in today's car a tune up essentially consists of spark plug change and check everything else over and replace as needed.


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## JustTheFacts

Dreamy said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any car or truck you would tell others to avoid purchasing because their maintenance is costly or their repairs/troubles are excessive?
Click to expand...


A few yes.

I would discourage anyone from purchasing a Dodge Caliber. Not because they are any more prone to problems than other vehicles, but because they are a pain in the ass to work on and thus you are looking at higher than normal repair bills. For instance, it's a 3 hour job to change an alternator, and one MUST discharge the a/c to get to it.

I have 3 customers who own them, and they never get out of the shop for less than $400 when a repair is needed.

To me , this is unacceptable in an "economy" car.

I would also recommend avoiding anything Ford puts a Triton motor in unless one actually needs the vehicle. VERY expensive vehicle to maintain.


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## JustTheFacts

Warrior102 said:


> Can you answer questions regarding HD Ultra Classics?



Other than they are kick ass bikes, no. I don't work on motorcycles at all.


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## emptystep

I got a question about benz brakes, that OK?


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## JustTheFacts

emptystep said:


> I got a question about benz brakes, that OK?



Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.


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## chikenwing

2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of  the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?


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## TNHarley

Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?


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## JustTheFacts

chikenwing said:


> 2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of  the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?



Sounds like a miscommunication problem between the SKIM module and the transponder key.

First step, disconnect the negative cable from the batter and let sit for 20 minutes.

Reconnect then insert key, and turn to on but do NOT attempt to start. Leave in the on position for 90 seconds. 

It should have reset itself, and be able to start.


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## JustTheFacts

TNHarley said:


> Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?



My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)

Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking? A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.


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## Warrior102

JustTheFacts said:


> Warrior102 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
> Dumbest move ever
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why you think it's the dumbest move ever. They are essentially  the same engine. The 302 has a slightly longer stroke but used the same pistons as the 289. They accomplished this by using shorter connecting rods.
> 
> This resulted in an engine which was slightly higher revving and thus more street able than the 289.
> 
> The engines are so similar in fact that in late 1967 early 1968 Ford didn't even know for sure which engines were going in which cars. Many models listed as "302" are actually 289.
Click to expand...


I understand it's the same motor. But wasn't power compromised?


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## TNHarley

JustTheFacts said:


> TNHarley said:
> 
> 
> 
> Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)
> 
> Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking?* A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.*
Click to expand...


Thats what I thought. I saw it on some forum. I was told it was a crank/cam by a mechanic. I got to get it fixed, fast. Sometimes, when I start my car, it rides like crap. It shakes, and acts like it wont go. I will have the pedal to the floor, and it wont go anywhere past 2k rpms. After around 5 or 6 seconds, it will shoot off like a bat ou tof hell (if my foot is still on the pedal)


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## mjollnir

2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.

I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.

Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it?  Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.


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## Warrior102

mjollnir said:


> 2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.
> 
> I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.
> 
> Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it?  Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.



Pull the dildo out of your ass - you'll have more room.

Thanks


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## TNHarley

Warrior102 said:


> mjollnir said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.
> 
> I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.
> 
> Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it?  Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pull the dildo out of your ass - you'll have more room.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...


The lazy fuck could just undo a couple bolts


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## emptystep

JustTheFacts said:


> emptystep said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got a question about benz brakes, that OK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.
Click to expand...


Alrightie then. My wife has a 2009 E350. 

When coming to a stop in every car I can remember right as you come to the end of the stop you can feather off the brake so the front end does not have that little pop up at the very end.

Her dang car won't do it. I creep all the way up to the very, very end and when the car stops it pops up. It is one of those things that once you notice it annoys the heck out of you. I had it at a shop who did not know what I was talking about until I showed him. He went out and drove two or three cars of the exact same model and said they all did it. I just can't believe Benz made a car that does this. 

The brake have been changed, and the rotors because you have to do both every time. No change.


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## chikenwing

JustTheFacts said:


> chikenwing said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of  the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a miscommunication problem between the SKIM module and the transponder key.
> 
> First step, disconnect the negative cable from the batter and let sit for 20 minutes.
> 
> Reconnect then insert key, and turn to on but do NOT attempt to start. Leave in the on position for 90 seconds.
> 
> It should have reset itself, and be able to start.
Click to expand...


Tried that about 20 times with each key. getting frustrated.


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## MikeK

JustTheFacts said:


> mjollnir said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.
Click to expand...

Wow!  That Lincoln is indeed a beautiful car.  But my taste runs to the 1976 Cadillac Eldorado convertible.  






A friend had one of these (red & white) and it rode like a sailboat on a calm lake.  What a gorgeous car it was.  I don't know why Cadillac doesn't make them anymore.

I presently own a 1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille which is in 95% showroom condition with only 76k miles.  I won it in a raffle in '94 and used it very rarely until recently.  It's beautiful, runs like new, and everything works.  My problem is the Kelley Blue Book says it's worth only $2,800 but it's worth $20k to me.  I love the car but I'm afraid to put it on the road because if anything happens to it I won't find anything like it for less than $20k.


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## Sunni Man

JustTheFacts said:


> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I change spark plugs and PCV valve about every 30,000 miles at my home.
> 
> Is that considered a full tune up in todays cars?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you drive? The fact is if you are needing to change spark plugs on anything built within the last 6 years or so every 30K miles you are either over doing your routine maintenance or you have something wrong which is fouling plugs early.
> 
> Most new engines can easily go 100K miles between plug changes if a person uses a quality brand platinum or iradium tipped spark plug.
> 
> And really normally the plugs aren't even fouled at 100K , the problem however is if you go much longer than that the coil to plug boot melts to the spark plug and then you end up needing to buy coils to replace the ones you've destroyed trying to remove them.
> 
> Yes in today's car a tune up essentially consists of spark plug change and check everything else over and replace as needed.
Click to expand...

It's a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 3100 motor. The plugs always look great with no fouling on the tips. 

Guess I was changing them way too soon.........


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## JustTheFacts

Warrior102 said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Warrior102 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
> Dumbest move ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure why you think it's the dumbest move ever. They are essentially  the same engine. The 302 has a slightly longer stroke but used the same pistons as the 289. They accomplished this by using shorter connecting rods.
> 
> This resulted in an engine which was slightly higher revving and thus more street able than the 289.
> 
> The engines are so similar in fact that in late 1967 early 1968 Ford didn't even know for sure which engines were going in which cars. Many models listed as "302" are actually 289.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I understand it's the same motor. But wasn't power compromised?
Click to expand...


no , actually power went up considerably. the 1967 289 with a 4 barrel carburetor had 210 HP (except of course for the K code 271 HP HiPo model) the  1968 302 had 251 HP


----------



## JustTheFacts

TNHarley said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TNHarley said:
> 
> 
> 
> Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)
> 
> Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking?* A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thats what I thought. I saw it on some forum. I was told it was a crank/cam by a mechanic. I got to get it fixed, fast. Sometimes, when I start my car, it rides like crap. It shakes, and acts like it wont go. I will have the pedal to the floor, and it wont go anywhere past 2k rpms. After around 5 or 6 seconds, it will shoot off like a bat ou tof hell (if my foot is still on the pedal)
Click to expand...


year model ? engine? Have you had anyone do an engine scan?


----------



## TNHarley

JustTheFacts said:


> TNHarley said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)
> 
> Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking?* A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what I thought. I saw it on some forum. I was told it was a crank/cam by a mechanic. I got to get it fixed, fast. Sometimes, when I start my car, it rides like crap. It shakes, and acts like it wont go. I will have the pedal to the floor, and it wont go anywhere past 2k rpms. After around 5 or 6 seconds, it will shoot off like a bat ou tof hell (if my foot is still on the pedal)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> year model ? engine? Have you had anyone do an engine scan?
Click to expand...


2002 3.5L v-6 I think. They hooked it up to a computer when they told me about the sensors


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## Dreamy

Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?

Sent from my DROID RAZR


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## JustTheFacts

mjollnir said:


> 2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.
> 
> I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.
> 
> Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it?  Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.



Unlikely. I would start by checking to see if you have power to the seats. The most likely cause is you've blown a fuse.


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## JustTheFacts

emptystep said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> emptystep said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got a question about benz brakes, that OK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Alrightie then. My wife has a 2009 E350.
> 
> When coming to a stop in every car I can remember right as you come to the end of the stop you can feather off the brake so the front end does not have that little pop up at the very end.
> 
> Her dang car won't do it. I creep all the way up to the very, very end and when the car stops it pops up. It is one of those things that once you notice it annoys the heck out of you. I had it at a shop who did not know what I was talking about until I showed him. He went out and drove two or three cars of the exact same model and said they all did it. I just can't believe Benz made a car that does this.
> 
> The brake have been changed, and the rotors because you have to do both every time. No change.
Click to expand...


I don't think there is anything wrong with your car. I think the issue is the electric assist brakes just behave differently than the hydraulic/vacuum brakes that you are probably used to. I think the dealer was being honest with you.


----------



## JustTheFacts

chikenwing said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chikenwing said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of  the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a miscommunication problem between the SKIM module and the transponder key.
> 
> First step, disconnect the negative cable from the batter and let sit for 20 minutes.
> 
> Reconnect then insert key, and turn to on but do NOT attempt to start. Leave in the on position for 90 seconds.
> 
> It should have reset itself, and be able to start.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Tried that about 20 times with each key. getting frustrated.
Click to expand...


I would try getting a new key from the dealer.


----------



## JustTheFacts

Dreamy said:


> Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR



no, of course not. well I mean, it could hurt the car if gas fumes caused an explosion, that probably wouldn't be too good for the car lol


----------



## emptystep

JustTheFacts said:


> emptystep said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alrightie then. My wife has a 2009 E350.
> 
> When coming to a stop in every car I can remember right as you come to the end of the stop you can feather off the brake so the front end does not have that little pop up at the very end.
> 
> Her dang car won't do it. I creep all the way up to the very, very end and when the car stops it pops up. It is one of those things that once you notice it annoys the heck out of you. I had it at a shop who did not know what I was talking about until I showed him. He went out and drove two or three cars of the exact same model and said they all did it. I just can't believe Benz made a car that does this.
> 
> The brake have been changed, and the rotors because you have to do both every time. No change.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I don't think there is anything wrong with your car. I think the issue is the electric assist brakes just behave differently than the hydraulic/vacuum brakes that you are probably used to. I think the dealer was being honest with you.
Click to expand...


I think that is probably right. The thing has enormous disks on it. 

One reason I prefer standards to automatics. More control over what does what when. I guess that would not help with the brake issue though. I could aways just yank back on handbrake a few feet from the line.  (I know, it doesn't actually have a 'hand' brake.)

One sad note. My wife traded in my S2000, number 2741 off the line, for her car.   What that thing could do should be illegal.


----------



## emptystep

JustTheFacts said:


> Dreamy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no, of course not. well I mean, it could hurt the car if gas fumes caused an explosion, that probably wouldn't be too good for the car lol
Click to expand...


What's the deal with a pressurized tank, if that is what it is called. I left my gas cap a little loose on the S2000 and the engine light came on after a while.


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## uscitizen

What is the resistance of a 7V alternator powered Ford electric choke coil vs a 12 volt one?
I have a rebuilt carb and it does not say the voltage on it but it is slow to open and the heat tube is good and so is the vacuum port for it.
Pull off adjusted properly of course.


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## JustTheFacts

emptystep said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dreamy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no, of course not. well I mean, it could hurt the car if gas fumes caused an explosion, that probably wouldn't be too good for the car lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> What's the deal with a pressurized tank, if that is what it is called. I left my gas cap a little loose on the S2000 and the engine light came on after a while.
Click to expand...




That is the EVAP system,  which's entire purpose is to capture stray gas fumes and return them to the tank. In order to work the system must be pressurized. 

The computer is constantly monitoring the EVAP system and when it detects a leak it triggers a code which turns on the check engine light. 

Actually that's not quite right. The computer actually has to register several such codes before it triggers a light. That's why it won't come on if you leave the car running while you refill for example. It takes multiple instances in a row to turn the light on.


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## L.K.Eder

where did i park my car?


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## JustTheFacts

L.K.Eder said:


> where did i park my car?



Dude!!!


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## Warrior102

JustTheFacts said:


> no , actually power went up considerably. the 1967 289 with a 4 barrel carburetor had 210 HP (except of course for the K code 271 HP HiPo model) the  1968 302 had 251 HP



Interesting. Never knew that. 
I saw '68 as a huge "fuck up" for the big 3 -- always considered '67 as the last of the best


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## JustTheFacts

Warrior102 said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> no , actually power went up considerably. the 1967 289 with a 4 barrel carburetor had 210 HP (except of course for the K code 271 HP HiPo model) the  1968 302 had 251 HP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Never knew that.
> I saw '68 as a huge "fuck up" for the big 3 -- always considered '67 as the last of the best
Click to expand...


68 had some bad ass cars from each of the big 3. Not sure I'd consider it a fuck up. 72 was the beginning of the end for the big 3 IMO.


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## Papawx3

Here's a question for you:
Never mind.  I got into this hoping to get an answer to a question I have about my truck.  But then I find out that the guy that I hoped would answer my question has been banned.  
That's just great....:


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## TNHarley

Someone might can help you. What is your problem?


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## Desperado

Papawx3 said:


> Here's a question for you:
> Never mind.  I got into this hoping to get an answer to a question I have about my truck.  But then I find out that the guy that I hoped would answer my question has been banned.
> That's just great....:



Boy that sucks.....
Give it a shot any way.


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## ConHog

Papawx3 said:


> Here's a question for you:
> Never mind.  I got into this hoping to get an answer to a question I have about my truck.  But then I find out that the guy that I hoped would answer my question has been banned.
> That's just great....:



ask your question bruh


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## Sunni Man

^^^ Same guy.....just new identity........


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## Papawx3

OK, here it is.
I have a 1998 Ford F-150 Super Cab pickup with a 4.2L V6 and just over 155K miles on it.  I bought this truck used last year from a private owner. 
A couple of months ago I started having a lot of trouble starting it.  It hadn't been serviced in quite a while so I took it to my mechanic's (ASE certified) shop for a tune-up.  He did that and he also cleaned out the throttle body that he said was really 'gunked up'.   Since then, the problem has gotten a lot worse.  The engine turns over, and over for several minutes before it finally fires.  I was thinking that the fuel pump is failing. Except that once it fires and starts, everything runs fine.  I can drive it all day long without a problem.  I can cut it off, and as long as it's only for a few minutes, it will restart without any problems.  But when I leave it overnight, I can bet on it taking an awful long time to start in the morning.   I'm all for getting it fixed, but I'd like to fix it the first time.   I'm in no mood or financial position to repeatedly replace parts until I find the real problem. 
Any suggestions?


----------



## TNHarley

My z-71 was like that. I replaced the starter and it fixed it..
But it could also be the crank or coolent sensor. You could get the starter checked before buying one, you might could get the others checked out as well, but IDK for sure..


----------



## Zona

Dreamy said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any car or truck you would tell others to avoid purchasing because their maintenance is costly or their repairs/troubles are excesy
> sive?
Click to expand...

 yup, BMW's.  I have two and love them but if you cant turn a wrench, you are screwed.  Great great motors though.  Horrible cooling systems.


----------



## Sunni Man

Papawx3 said:


> The engine turns over, and over for several minutes before it finally fires.


It's not the starter.

But definitely a fuel problem..........


----------



## TNHarley

Sunni Man said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The engine turns over, and over for several minutes before it finally fires.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the starter.
> 
> But definitely a fuel problem..........
Click to expand...


It fixed my truck. Mine would lag for 4-5 seconds, replaced that and back to normal


----------



## ConHog

Papawx3 said:


> OK, here it is.
> I have a 1998 Ford F-150 Super Cab pickup with a 4.2L V6 and just over 155K miles on it.  I bought this truck used last year from a private owner.
> A couple of months ago I started having a lot of trouble starting it.  It hadn't been serviced in quite a while so I took it to my mechanic's (ASE certified) shop for a tune-up.  He did that and he also cleaned out the throttle body that he said was really 'gunked up'.   Since then, the problem has gotten a lot worse.  The engine turns over, and over for several minutes before it finally fires.  I was thinking that the fuel pump is failing. Except that once it fires and starts, everything runs fine.  I can drive it all day long without a problem.  I can cut it off, and as long as it's only for a few minutes, it will restart without any problems.  But when I leave it overnight, I can bet on it taking an awful long time to start in the morning.   I'm all for getting it fixed, but I'd like to fix it the first time.   I'm in no mood or financial position to repeatedly replace parts until I find the real problem.
> Any suggestions?




My initial thought it Crankshaft Position Sensor

Without access to a datastream from a scanner that's just a fairly educated opinion, but no guarantees.

The good news is that sensor is about $30 and fairly easy to change. Not more than an hour labor.


----------



## Sunni Man

ConHog said:


> My initial thought it Crankshaft Position Sensor
> 
> Without access to a datastream from a scanner that's just a fairly educated opinion, but no guarantees.
> 
> The good news is that sensor is about $30 and fairly easy to change. Not more than an hour labor.


If that's the problem....then why would it eventually fire up and start?

And then keep starting for the rest of the day after it warmed up?


----------



## ConHog

Sunni Man said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> My initial thought it Crankshaft Position Sensor
> 
> Without access to a datastream from a scanner that's just a fairly educated opinion, but no guarantees.
> 
> The good news is that sensor is about $30 and fairly easy to change. Not more than an hour labor.
> 
> 
> 
> If that's the problem....then why would it eventually fire up and start?
> 
> And then keep starting for the rest of the day after it warmed up?
Click to expand...


Because the way the system works, and this is pretty standard anymore is that the fuel injectors won't fire unless and until the crankshaft position sensor sends a go signal to the engine computer and the engine computer relays that signal to the fuel injectors.

So what happens is that when a CPS starts failing it begins to randomly not send the appropriate signal and so the vehicle will crank but not turn over. Eventually it will not send the signal at all.

His technician can easily verify this either with a scanner by simply going into the datastream and checking the CPS voltate or by using a multimeter to manually test the voltage at the CPS. It' a simple 2 wire sensor. One wire has a 5V reference and is always hot , the other is the wire that signals the ECU that engine has been cranked over, it should have around 5 volts when cranking , if it's < 3.6V the sensor is definitely bad.

99 out of 100 times it is this sensor. No guarantees diagnosing it over the internet. But that' my thought.


----------



## Papawx3

ConHog said:


> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> My initial thought it Crankshaft Position Sensor
> 
> Without access to a datastream from a scanner that's just a fairly educated opinion, but no guarantees.
> 
> The good news is that sensor is about $30 and fairly easy to change. Not more than an hour labor.
> 
> 
> 
> If that's the problem....then why would it eventually fire up and start?
> 
> And then keep starting for the rest of the day after it warmed up?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Because the way the system works, and this is pretty standard anymore is that the fuel injectors won't fire unless and until the crankshaft position sensor sends a go signal to the engine computer and the engine computer relays that signal to the fuel injectors.
> 
> So what happens is that when a CPS starts failing it begins to randomly not send the appropriate signal and so the vehicle will crank but not turn over. Eventually it will not send the signal at all.
> 
> *His technician can easily verify this either with a scanner by simply going into the datastream and checking the CPS voltate or by using a multimeter to manually test the voltage at the CPS. It' a simple 2 wire sensor. One wire has a 5V reference and is always hot , the other is the wire that signals the ECU that engine has been cranked over, it should have around 5 volts when cranking , if it's < 3.6V the sensor is definitely bad.*
> 
> 99 out of 100 times it is this sensor. No guarantees diagnosing it over the internet. But that' my thought.
Click to expand...


I'm an electronic technician by trade and have my own digital multi-meter.   Is it something I can check?  If so, where is it located and which wires should I check?

Also, I looked up the CPS at Rockauto.com and I can buy the CPS online for about $21.00.  I'm willing to buy that if it will cure the problem with my truck.


----------



## ConHog

Papawx3 said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> If that's the problem....then why would it eventually fire up and start?
> 
> And then keep starting for the rest of the day after it warmed up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because the way the system works, and this is pretty standard anymore is that the fuel injectors won't fire unless and until the crankshaft position sensor sends a go signal to the engine computer and the engine computer relays that signal to the fuel injectors.
> 
> So what happens is that when a CPS starts failing it begins to randomly not send the appropriate signal and so the vehicle will crank but not turn over. Eventually it will not send the signal at all.
> 
> *His technician can easily verify this either with a scanner by simply going into the datastream and checking the CPS voltate or by using a multimeter to manually test the voltage at the CPS. It' a simple 2 wire sensor. One wire has a 5V reference and is always hot , the other is the wire that signals the ECU that engine has been cranked over, it should have around 5 volts when cranking , if it's < 3.6V the sensor is definitely bad.*
> 
> 99 out of 100 times it is this sensor. No guarantees diagnosing it over the internet. But that' my thought.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I'm an electronic technician by trade and have my own digital multi-meter.   Is it something I can check?  If so, where is it located and which wires should I check?
Click to expand...


Yes , you could test it and probably even change it if need be by yourself.

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the lower right front of the engine. Down by the crankshaft pulley itself.

here is a generic sensor, they all look similar.






there are two wires. Can't remember for sure, but I think they are Dark Blue and the other is Gray. I can look it up if you need me to.

The Gray I believe is the reference wire. Should have 5V at all times, the other is the signal that should put out around 5V when the engine is cranked.

If it needs to be changed, its a simple unplug electrical connector, remove two 10mm bolts and gently pry sensor out of engine.

Reverse to install, but be very careful not to scuff the end of the sensor. There may be a felt pad on the end of it, do NOT remove that pad, it is a spacer that must be there if it came from the factory with one.

If you do it yourself be aware that for the first 20 miles or so after replacement the truck will drive like shit until the computer can do a relearn.


I can't promise anything , I mean I'm diagnosing without even seeing the car you know, but I'm fairly confident it is the Crankshaft sensor.


----------



## Papawx3

Thanks. I appreciate the help.  I'll check it this weekend (after the rain passes) and order the CPS if the other one checks bad.
Thanks again!


----------



## ConHog

Papawx3 said:


> Thanks. I appreciate the help.  I'll check it this weekend (after the rain passes) and order the CPS if the other one checks bad.
> Thanks again!



$26 at AutoZone. No need to have one shipped in.


----------



## Big Black Dog

JustTheFacts said:


> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> *Ask anything I'll do my best to help you*. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.



I have a 2010 Chevy Avalanche.  It is paid for.  I've noticed that ever since I got the title to it in the mail after the loan was paid off that it drives just wonderful.  Why is it that a car that is paid for drives so much better than one that you owe money on?


----------



## Sunni Man

ConHog said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I appreciate the help.  I'll check it this weekend (after the rain passes) and order the CPS if the other one checks bad.
> Thanks again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $26 at AutoZone. No need to have one shipped in.
Click to expand...

I quit going to AutoZone along time ago because half their stuff was cheap crap.

I like NAPA much better..........


----------



## ConHog

Sunni Man said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I appreciate the help.  I'll check it this weekend (after the rain passes) and order the CPS if the other one checks bad.
> Thanks again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $26 at AutoZone. No need to have one shipped in.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I quit going to AutoZone along time ago because half their stuff was cheap crap.
> 
> I like NAPA much better..........
Click to expand...


We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.


----------



## Papawx3

The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.


----------



## ConHog

Papawx3 said:


> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.



Napa has that, it' a very common part

MPE CSS406SB is the part number

$19.35


----------



## Paulie

ConHog said:


> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> $26 at AutoZone. No need to have one shipped in.
> 
> 
> 
> I quit going to AutoZone along time ago because half their stuff was cheap crap.
> 
> I like NAPA much better..........
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
Click to expand...


Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.

They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.  

I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars


----------



## ConHog

Paulie said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I quit going to AutoZone along time ago because half their stuff was cheap crap.
> 
> I like NAPA much better..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
Click to expand...


Diuraast doesn't make fuel pump. Oh and we ONLY install AirTex fuel pumps. Probably do 10 a month. We buy them through AutoZone, their warranty is outstanding, and includes a labor reimbursement if we do have to warranty the part. We've warrantied one in the last 2 1/2 years.


----------



## Paulie

ConHog said:


> Paulie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Diuraast doesn't make fuel pump. Oh and we ONLY install AirTex fuel pumps. Probably do 10 a month. We buy them through AutoZone, their warranty is outstanding, and includes a labor reimbursement if we do have to warranty the part. We've warrantied one in the last 2 1/2 years.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't remember the other brand off the top of my head.  But I've had an Airtex fail in 6 months, and the other brand one fail in 6 months too.  Airtex was in a Taurus and the other was in an S10.

I did them both myself, but had originally asked a shop to install the Airtex one bc I didn't really have the time, but I didn't like the price.  And the guy told me the same thing about the Airtex pumps, 6 months...year tops.

Everyone's mileage varies though of course.


----------



## Sunni Man

Papawx3 said:


> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.


Look for a CPS from AC Delco


----------



## ConHog

Sunni Man said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a CPS from AC Delco
Click to expand...


ac delco? He has a Ford product. He'd be looking for a Motorcraft part if anything.


----------



## Sunni Man

ConHog said:


> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a CPS from AC Delco
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> ac delco? He has a Ford product. He'd be looking for a Motorcraft part if anything.
Click to expand...

My bad.......yes, he should check for the CPS from Motorcraft......better quality.......


----------



## ConHog

Sunni Man said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a CPS from AC Delco
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ac delco? He has a Ford product. He'd be looking for a Motorcraft part if anything.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My bad.......yes, he should check for the CPS from Motorcraft......better quality.......
Click to expand...


Eh, debatable. We put in literally dozens of CPS's and always just use Duralast, rarely have a problem. 


And our local Ford Dealership is manned by morons it's nearly impossible to get the right part from them.


----------



## Papawx3

ConHog said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Napa has that, it' a very common part
> 
> MPE CSS406SB is the part number
> 
> $19.35
Click to expand...


I went to my local NAPA dealer's website and entered the part number above.  It says they have it in stock for $23.00.  The nearest other auto parts store is another 15 miles away, and with the way gas prices are rising, I'd have to be some kind of fool to drive all over town trying to save a dollar.  My parents didn't raise me to be a fool. 

If I had known I could get this much help here, I'd have come to you guys weeks ago.
Thanks


----------



## ConHog

Papawx3 said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Napa has that, it' a very common part
> 
> MPE CSS406SB is the part number
> 
> $19.35
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I went to my local NAPA dealer's website and entered the part number above.  It says they have it in stock for $23.00.  The nearest other auto parts store is another 15 miles away, and with the way gas prices are rising, I'd have to be some kind of fool to drive all over town trying to save a dollar.  My parents didn't raise me to be a fool.
> 
> If I had known I could get this much help here, I'd have come to you guys weeks ago.
> Thanks
Click to expand...


No problem manm I really feel thats your problem


----------



## Sunni Man

Papawx3 said:


> If I had known I could get this much help here, I'd have come to you guys weeks ago.
> Thanks


Be sure to post after you install the part and give us some feedback.........


----------



## Underhill

Paulie said:


> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sunni Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I quit going to AutoZone along time ago because half their stuff was cheap crap.
> 
> I like NAPA much better..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
Click to expand...


Exactly.   If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts.   But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%.      As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40.   From the VW dealer, $120.    

Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit.   But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....

I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.


----------



## Zona

ConHog said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The nearest Autozone is 25 miles away but we have a NAPA store just down the street.  Only problem is that the NAPA site only shows the CPS wiring harness repair kit, not the CPS itself.  Autozone has it (Durolast) in stock for $21.99.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Napa has that, it' a very common part
> 
> MPE CSS406SB is the part number
> 
> $19.35
Click to expand...


Listen to Conhog, he has a ferrarri!


----------



## Zona

Underhill said:


> Paulie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Exactly.   If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts.   But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%.      As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40.   From the VW dealer, $120.
> 
> Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit.   But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....
> 
> I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.
Click to expand...


There is a place here called BAP.  They are pretty good for parts (much better than autozone or NAPa) and they give a military discount.  I swear the guy behind the counter knows me by name at this point.  They only deal with foreign car parts though.


----------



## Paulie

Underhill said:


> Paulie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Exactly.   If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts.   But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%.      As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40.   From the VW dealer, $120.
> 
> Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit.   But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....
> 
> I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.
Click to expand...


I like Rockauto.com for parts.  You can get economy brand parts, all the way up the ladder to OEM.

Easy to change parts I don't mind going generic, but if a part is hard to access and takes hours to fix it might be worth it to get OEM to avoid having to do that same time consuming repair in 6 months.


----------



## Jarlaxle

Underhill said:


> Paulie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Exactly.   If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts.   But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%.      As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40.   From the VW dealer, $120.
> 
> Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit.   But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....
> 
> I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.
Click to expand...


AZ's Duralast rotors aren't bad...I've used them.  Then again, dealer parts often aren't any better & probably come out of the same Chinese foundry.


----------



## Paulie

Jarlaxle said:


> Underhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paulie said:
> 
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.   If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts.   But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%.      As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40.   From the VW dealer, $120.
> 
> Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit.   But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....
> 
> I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> AZ's Duralast rotors aren't bad...I've used them.  Then again, dealer parts often aren't any better & probably come out of the same Chinese foundry.
Click to expand...


Rotors are easy enough to do that it's not a big deal to go cheaper.  There's no other moving parts on a rotor, there's no electronics involved, it's just a fixed item...the life of that kind of part is always going to be at least a couple years, whereas something like a fuel pump can go in 6 months.  And fuel pumps are in fuel tanks nowadays, so the job is not easy to perform...you have to drop the tank, undo fuel lines sometimes, deal with wiring, etc.  Not all DIY mechanics can handle that task.


----------



## Book of Jeremiah

JustTheFacts said:


> I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.
> 
> As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.
> 
> Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.



That is very generous of you, JustTheFacts!  If I can think of something I'll ask!


----------



## Missourian

JustTheFacts said:


> mjollnir said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.
Click to expand...



'66 Olds Toronado.


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## Underhill

Jarlaxle said:


> Underhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paulie said:
> 
> 
> 
> Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.
> 
> They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.
> 
> I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit.  I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.   If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts.   But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%.      As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40.   From the VW dealer, $120.
> 
> Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit.   But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....
> 
> I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> AZ's Duralast rotors aren't bad...I've used them.  Then again, dealer parts often aren't any better & probably come out of the same Chinese foundry.
Click to expand...



A bit of background.   My Scion TC that I bought new didn't need new brakes until the 85k mile mark.    I am very easy on brakes.   Drive only manual transmission cars and use engine braking when I can.   I also drive almost exclusively in the country.   My daily commute consist of 2 stop lights and a stop sign in my 20 mile each way trip. 

But I replaced the rotors on my Jeep Wrangler twice from Auto Zone in 20k miles after they warped severely.   So I swapped to a set of good quality (read expensive) after market rotors and never had a problem again.  

It could be that vehicle, it could be specific to those rotors.   But I suspect the problem with rotors boils down to material quality.    As an engineer I can tell you the difference steel quality can make is significant in something subjected to high heat (as rotors are).  And for  a set of rotors to warp that quickly means either a) they are undersized for the vehicle or b) the material is inferior.  (or I suppose the calipers could be bad, which was not the case here..)

I'm thinking it's B since the upgraded rotors never gave me a problem.   

But I'm willing to concede I could have just gotten a bad batch or something.


----------



## Underhill

Missourian said:


> JustTheFacts said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mjollnir said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> '66 Olds Toronado.
Click to expand...


Always been a fan of the late 1940's Buicks...   Love those grills.


----------



## KissMy

Underhill said:


> A bit of background.   My Scion TC that I bought new didn't need new brakes until the 85k mile mark.    I am very easy on brakes.   Drive only manual transmission cars and use engine braking when I can.   I also drive almost exclusively in the country.   My daily commute consist of 2 stop lights and a stop sign in my 20 mile each way trip.
> 
> But I replaced the rotors on my Jeep Wrangler twice from Auto Zone in 20k miles after they warped severely.   So I swapped to a set of good quality (read expensive) after market rotors and never had a problem again.
> 
> It could be that vehicle, it could be specific to those rotors.   But I suspect the problem with rotors boils down to material quality.    As an engineer I can tell you the difference steel quality can make is significant in something subjected to high heat (as rotors are).  And for  a set of rotors to warp that quickly means either a) they are undersized for the vehicle or b) the material is inferior.  (or I suppose the calipers could be bad, which was not the case here..)
> 
> I'm thinking it's B since the upgraded rotors never gave me a problem.
> 
> But I'm willing to concede I could have just gotten a bad batch or something.



Your brake is not properly releasing, dragging the pads on the rotors causing excessive heat. Replace your brake hoses, clean & lube caliper slides & bolts. If it does it again, replace caliper.


----------



## KissMy

Desperado said:


> Thanks I will keep that in mind...
> When I have some more time, may have to consult you about a 2002 Taurus with an idle problem.



I have seen a few bad Ford Idle Air Control (IAC) Motors. Could also be a manifold gasket or vacuum leak. Some vehicles you have to remove negative battery cable & let sit for 20 minutes to clear memory & then drive it for 20 minutes so it can re-learn idle.


----------



## uscitizen

uscitizen said:


> What is the resistance of a 7V alternator powered Ford electric choke coil vs a 12 volt one?
> I have a rebuilt carb and it does not say the voltage on it but it is slow to open and the heat tube is good and so is the vacuum port for it.
> Pull off adjusted properly of course.



Did I miss your answer on this?


----------



## KissMy

ConHog said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ConHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> Because the way the system works, and this is pretty standard anymore is that the fuel injectors won't fire unless and until the crankshaft position sensor sends a go signal to the engine computer and the engine computer relays that signal to the fuel injectors.
> 
> So what happens is that when a CPS starts failing it begins to randomly not send the appropriate signal and so the vehicle will crank but not turn over. Eventually it will not send the signal at all.
> 
> *His technician can easily verify this either with a scanner by simply going into the datastream and checking the CPS voltate or by using a multimeter to manually test the voltage at the CPS. It' a simple 2 wire sensor. One wire has a 5V reference and is always hot , the other is the wire that signals the ECU that engine has been cranked over, it should have around 5 volts when cranking , if it's < 3.6V the sensor is definitely bad.*
> 
> 99 out of 100 times it is this sensor. No guarantees diagnosing it over the internet. But that' my thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm an electronic technician by trade and have my own digital multi-meter.   Is it something I can check?  If so, where is it located and which wires should I check?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yes , you could test it and probably even change it if need be by yourself.
> 
> The crankshaft position sensor is located on the lower right front of the engine. Down by the crankshaft pulley itself.
> 
> here is a generic sensor, they all look similar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there are two wires. Can't remember for sure, but I think they are Dark Blue and the other is Gray. I can look it up if you need me to.
> 
> The Gray I believe is the reference wire. Should have 5V at all times, the other is the signal that should put out around 5V when the engine is cranked.
> 
> If it needs to be changed, its a simple unplug electrical connector, remove two 10mm bolts and gently pry sensor out of engine.
> 
> Reverse to install, but be very careful not to scuff the end of the sensor. There may be a felt pad on the end of it, do NOT remove that pad, it is a spacer that must be there if it came from the factory with one.
> 
> If you do it yourself be aware that for the first 20 miles or so after replacement the truck will drive like shit until the computer can do a relearn.
> 
> 
> I can't promise anything , I mean I'm diagnosing without even seeing the car you know, but I'm fairly confident it is the Crankshaft sensor.
Click to expand...


These sensors should have caused his check engine light to come on.


----------



## Underhill

KissMy said:


> Underhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> A bit of background.   My Scion TC that I bought new didn't need new brakes until the 85k mile mark.    I am very easy on brakes.   Drive only manual transmission cars and use engine braking when I can.   I also drive almost exclusively in the country.   My daily commute consist of 2 stop lights and a stop sign in my 20 mile each way trip.
> 
> But I replaced the rotors on my Jeep Wrangler twice from Auto Zone in 20k miles after they warped severely.   So I swapped to a set of good quality (read expensive) after market rotors and never had a problem again.
> 
> It could be that vehicle, it could be specific to those rotors.   But I suspect the problem with rotors boils down to material quality.    As an engineer I can tell you the difference steel quality can make is significant in something subjected to high heat (as rotors are).  And for  a set of rotors to warp that quickly means either a) they are undersized for the vehicle or b) the material is inferior.  (or I suppose the calipers could be bad, which was not the case here..)
> 
> I'm thinking it's B since the upgraded rotors never gave me a problem.
> 
> But I'm willing to concede I could have just gotten a bad batch or something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your brake is not properly releasing, dragging the pads on the rotors causing excessive heat. Replace your brake hoses, clean & lube caliper slides & bolts. If it does it again, replace caliper.
Click to expand...


If that is the case, then why did the problem go away with better rotors?   I've driven close to 30k with the last set and no issues.


----------



## Papawx3

Sunni Man said:


> Papawx3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I had known I could get this much help here, I'd have come to you guys weeks ago.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to post after you install the part and give us some feedback.........
Click to expand...


OK, Here's what I found.  I put it up on my ramps and got up under it.  I wiggled the wires and it must have had a loose connection because I think I reseated the plug.  I never replaced it because the nuts are so tight on the bolts from the heat that I never could get them to break loose.  So I put it back down and cranked the engine and she stsarted right up. 
I let it sit overnight and then tried again and it started right up again. Then I let it sit for 2 days and the problem has still not returned. 
Heck, I might wind up returning the sensor I bought, and that's OK by me.,


----------



## waltky

94 Ranger XLT, 4 liter big 6, fuel injected, 2wd, standard 5-speed...

... won't start when it's cold, runs rough, misfires at 1500 rpm's and cuts out until it gets warmed up...

... fuel pressure checks out and diagnostic machine doesn't show any abnormalities...

... fuel filter and ignition module has been replaced, coil pack swapped out, oil changed, air filter replaced and engine tuned up...

... but still is extremely hard starting when it's cold or rainy or both...

... mechanic is baffled as to what the cause is.

(Had an S10 a few years back that did the same thing...

... turned out to be the diode on the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the distributor...

... but mechanic doesn't think it's the same cause here.)


----------



## KissMy

waltky said:


> 94 Ranger XLT, 4 liter big 6, fuel injected, 2wd, standard 5-speed...
> 
> ... won't start when it's cold, runs rough, misfires at 1500 rpm's and cuts out until it gets warmed up...
> 
> ... fuel pressure checks out and diagnostic machine doesn't show any abnormalities...
> 
> ... fuel filter and ignition module has been replaced, coil pack swapped out, oil changed, air filter replaced and engine tuned up...
> 
> ... but still is extremely hard starting when it's cold or rainy or both...
> 
> ... mechanic is baffled as to what the cause is.
> 
> (Had an S10 a few years back that did the same thing...
> 
> ... turned out to be the diode on the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the distributor...
> 
> ... but mechanic doesn't think it's the same cause here.)



Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc.


----------



## Sunni Man

KissMy said:


> Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc.


Look under the hood on a dark night while having someone else try to start it.

If there is any plug wire arcing it will be easy to spot the location.........


----------



## MikeK

How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv?  Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?


----------



## KissMy

MikeK said:


> How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv?  Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?



It's just a code reader. Autozone will read your codes for free.


----------



## MikeK

KissMy said:


> MikeK said:
> 
> 
> 
> How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv?  Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a code reader. Autozone will read your codes for free.
Click to expand...

But do the codes it reads refer to specific problems, which I expect are listed in some accompanying reference manual?  

If so, go back to my original question.  Are these devices usefully accurate?


----------



## waltky

Kissmy wrote: _Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc._

Yes, plug wires have been replaced...

... just called the mechanic...

... and he says it's the computer.


----------



## Underhill

MikeK said:


> KissMy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MikeK said:
> 
> 
> 
> How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv?  Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a code reader. Autozone will read your codes for free.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> But do the codes it reads refer to specific problems, which I expect are listed in some accompanying reference manual?
> 
> If so, go back to my original question.  Are these devices usefully accurate?
Click to expand...


I'm no expert, but here is my experience. 

I don't know anything about that particular model reader but they can be.   If your check engine light comes on they can often tell you why.   Although it can be vague.

I used one a while back on my wifes Durango and the code came back with something like  a fuel system error.   Which upon researching it could be one of a dozen different things.  So I started at the most likely and worked my way down.  

But it can give you codes for specific sensors etc...

They are virtually no help for many mechanical problems, but they do make life easier for electrical issues.   If nothing else it will often narrow down the problem letting you know where to look.

My big question for the factory mechanic here is this.   Is there a difference between the readers I've used from Auto Zone and those used at the dealer?


----------



## Jarlaxle

You can get a code chart, but really don't need one...if you get a code, just plug it into Google.


----------



## KissMy

MikeK said:


> KissMy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MikeK said:
> 
> 
> 
> How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv?  Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a code reader. Autozone will read your codes for free.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> But do the codes it reads refer to specific problems, which I expect are listed in some accompanying reference manual?
> 
> If so, go back to my original question.  Are these devices usefully accurate?
Click to expand...


Your car's computer is what detects & logs the problem. The device just shows you the codes the computer logged. There are better ones that allow you to see the real time sensor readings on your laptop computer. Better yet there are nice ones that let you view & change your car's program for more power, speed, mileage, emissions, etc. 

The code does not tell you exactly what part to replace. For instance the codes may indicate that #4 cylinder is misfiring & the oxygen sensor is out of range. The oxygen sensor is likely fine because #4 cylinder is not burning the oxygen & it is going down the exhaust pipe where the oxygen sensor detected to much O2. It could be a bad spark plug, wire, coil, valve, piston, injector, gasket, etc on #4 cylinder causing those codes.


----------



## KissMy

waltky said:


> Kissmy wrote: _Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc._
> 
> Yes, plug wires have been replaced...
> 
> ... just called the mechanic...
> 
> ... and he says it's the computer.



It does not sound like a computer to me. Try spraying water on wires & sensors after is is warmed up & running good. See if that makes it act up. It could also be temperature sensors or timing sensors.

Your Ford truck problem sounds just like the one Papawx3 posted here. It was the Crankshaft Position Sensor & apparently it did not log codes to make the check engine light come on for the mechanics computer to read.


----------

