Ordered some plans to build a pistol from scratch...

Rifling a barrel... Kinda...


Just get a redmans barrel liner from Brownells. Drill a hole and locktite it in, chamber it. #1 bit think it was for 22.

Cool you're gonna build this! I built licensed, now I am retired, some for me. On the list is an 1874 Sharps, found machinist plans.

Also Mr Buckleys PCP airgun. His book "modern Pneumatic airguns" on the way. Out of print but e mail him, he has a few volume 1 left. This site has variants of it and some more. Cool. Schaefer - Modern Stock Airgun

osairgun37.JPG
osairgun38.JPG
target1.JPG
 
Just get a redmans barrel liner from Brownells. Drill a hole and locktite it in, chamber it. #1 bit think it was for 22.

Cool you're gonna build this! I built licensed, now I am retired, some for me. On the list is an 1874 Sharps, found machinist plans.

Also Mr Buckleys PCP airgun. His book "modern Pneumatic airguns" on the way. Out of print but e mail him, he has a few volume 1 left. This site has variants of it and some more. Cool. Schaefer - Modern Stock Airgun

osairgun37.JPG
osairgun38.JPG
target1.JPG

Those barrel liners are pretty interesting,I've never heard of them.
Do they take your existing barrel and ream it out a bit so the liner fits?
 
Those barrel liners are pretty interesting,I've never heard of them.
Do they take your existing barrel and ream it out a bit so the liner fits?
Yes, exactly, sorta. Doesn't need to be reamed just drilled. There is a special drill with steps in it to make it easy. Barrel liners been used longer than my 67 years. Very common to rebarrel shot out 22's. Get the twist you wish, well a couple. Look beyond Brownells, I have seen others too. There is a drill, liner (OOS temp, they will be back) on this page. I have used some shorter bbl liners, just drilled the barrel on a lathe, 3/8" think it was. Red locktite it in. Midway probably has them too. Make your own drill, use #1 think for chamber reamer or $50 for one. Do it simple, $30 for a long liner.


I will most likely build one too. >:) 1 liner will do several pistols. I could help some people out possibly, been gonna get a bbl drill anyway. I did not notice an extractor in the pic of the barrel housing. No biggie, punch it out.
 
Here's some more liners, right up to 44-40! Get 17 rimfire liners too but def need a chamber reamer then.
 
Yes, exactly, sorta. Doesn't need to be reamed just drilled. There is a special drill with steps in it to make it easy. Barrel liners been used longer than my 67 years. Very common to rebarrel shot out 22's. Get the twist you wish, well a couple. Look beyond Brownells, I have seen others too. There is a drill, liner (OOS temp, they will be back) on this page. I have used some shorter bbl liners, just drilled the barrel on a lathe, 3/8" think it was. Red locktite it in. Midway probably has them too. Make your own drill, use #1 think for chamber reamer or $50 for one. Do it simple, $30 for a long liner.


I will most likely build one too. >:) 1 liner will do several pistols. I could help some people out possibly, been gonna get a bbl drill anyway. I did not notice an extractor in the pic of the barrel housing. No biggie, punch it out.

Interesting.
I guess it depends on what type barrel you're refreshing.
You can buy a pretty nice A/R barrel for $200 to $250 bucks of course if you start getting into match grade stuff it's going to go up from there.
 
Interesting.
I guess it depends on what type barrel you're refreshing.
You can buy a pretty nice A/R barrel for $200 to $250 bucks of course if you start getting into match grade stuff it's going to go up from there.
Yes there are many take off barrels, like ruger 10-22 stock bbls got replaced with fancy. I have seen many under $100

For a 22, barrel liner rules, always has.

If one is interested in actually rifling a blank lots info. Here's a couple.

Old BP makers did their own, some still do. Long cradle, one end holds barrel indexed. Front of the cradle has a wooden "nut" the rifling tool is pulled thru. Tool is a dowel fits tight. Little mortice joint, stick a chunk carbide like a tip off a carbide circ saw blade. Cut, put a shim under the carbide, cut again. Index it and do it over. Marlin came out with "button rifling" Just pull a button with multiple cutters on it.
 
Yes there are many take off barrels, like ruger 10-22 stock bbls got replaced with fancy. I have seen many under $100

For a 22, barrel liner rules, always has.

If one is interested in actually rifling a blank lots info. Here's a couple.

Old BP makers did their own, some still do. Long cradle, one end holds barrel indexed. Front of the cradle has a wooden "nut" the rifling tool is pulled thru. Tool is a dowel fits tight. Little mortice joint, stick a chunk carbide like a tip off a carbide circ saw blade. Cut, put a shim under the carbide, cut again. Index it and do it over. Marlin came out with "button rifling" Just pull a button with multiple cutters on it.

As a machinist or I should say a retired machinist I understand the principle.
There's two ways it can be done. By broaching or with a lathe and boring bar with the lathe running at slow rpms and the feed rate set really fast.
You're basically cutting a long thread.
 
As a machinist or I should say a retired machinist I understand the principle.
There's two ways it can be done. By broaching or with a lathe and boring bar with the lathe running at slow rpms and the feed rate set really fast.
You're basically cutting a long thread.
Yes, it is prob best defined as broaching. I have 40" between centers. The twists we encounter today like 22's, one turn in 16-20 inches, 223 1 in 7-12 etc would be doable I believe. Old longrifles shot patched balls were 1 turn in 66, 1 in 48 for minies. They used what I tried to describe yesterday. Pics worth 1000 words. For a 22 why bother, use a liner.
35c6dd854666e63e5db1dc723c8c47cd.jpg
riflingcutter084web.jpg

dac898f5340d32fb861758bed9615421.jpg



Kingsford broach and tool will make any broach.
reamer-rifling-510.JPG
 
Plans came... Twice...

First set was missing some pages.

Sent them a message and they got back to me same day and sent them out again.

I'm already thinking about changing them.

The plans call for the frame to be 3/16 ASTM A-36 (no heat treatment required) or AISI 4130 heat treated to 42-44 RH.

I can likely do AISI 4130...but I'm thinking of using 6061 Aluminum in 1/4 inch instead while making the outside of the frame thicker.

Easier in my tools and beefy enough for .22LR...I would think.

Thoughts?
 
Plans came... Twice...

First set was missing some pages.

Sent them a message and they got back to me same day and sent them out again.

I'm already thinking about changing them.

The plans call for the frame to be 3/16 ASTM A-36 (no heat treatment required) or AISI 4130 heat treated to 42-44 RH.

I can likely do AISI 4130...but I'm thinking of using 6061 Aluminum in 1/4 inch instead while making the outside of the frame thicker.

Easier in my tools and beefy enough for .22LR...I would think.

Thoughts?
Think I am missing a couple pages too, one was blank.

I would build it as he described.

Frame and trigger integral on his design, so need steel for the spring factor.

Now onto alum. I have a few good books.

Jerry Linsey , $11. Amazon product ASIN 0557317681Basically a rem #6 rolling block. Alum frame and sides, 3/8 steel block and hammer. 22lr of course.

Glen Davis, $25 Amazon product ASIN 1523345217
Little fancier, 2 versions and ML and a 22. I like both books. Made to be done with a minimum of tools, small drill press recommended. I do have machine tools though but good, simple designs. Once thru the book won't do it. Keep reading over and over and it clicks.

Now I did paste H Buckleys book and airgun photo a few posts ago. That is one comprehensive book!

My goal is (as I am designing it now) a falling block, 22K hornet.

As when I was a mfg, licensed all will be serial numbered, name and address stamped. I may get my MFG ffl back again, I dunno.
 
Think I am missing a couple pages too, one was blank.

I would build it as he described.

Frame and trigger integral on his design, so need steel for the spring factor.

Now onto alum. I have a few good books.

Jerry Linsey , $11. Amazon product ASIN 0557317681Basically a rem #6 rolling block. Alum frame and sides, 3/8 steel block and hammer. 22lr of course.

Glen Davis, $25 Amazon product ASIN 1523345217
Little fancier, 2 versions and ML and a 22. I like both books. Made to be done with a minimum of tools, small drill press recommended. I do have machine tools though but good, simple designs. Once thru the book won't do it. Keep reading over and over and it clicks.

Now I did paste H Buckleys book and airgun photo a few posts ago. That is one comprehensive book!

My goal is (as I am designing it now) a falling block, 22K hornet.

As when I was a mfg, licensed all will be serial numbered, name and address stamped. I may get my MFG ffl back again, I dunno.
Think I am missing a couple pages too, one was blank.

I would build it as he described.

Frame and trigger integral on his design, so need steel for the spring factor.

Now onto alum. I have a few good books.

Jerry Linsey , $11. Amazon product ASIN 0557317681Basically a rem #6 rolling block. Alum frame and sides, 3/8 steel block and hammer. 22lr of course.

Glen Davis, $25 Amazon product ASIN 1523345217
Little fancier, 2 versions and ML and a 22. I like both books. Made to be done with a minimum of tools, small drill press recommended. I do have machine tools though but good, simple designs. Once thru the book won't do it. Keep reading over and over and it clicks.

Now I did paste H Buckleys book and airgun photo a few posts ago. That is one comprehensive book!

My goal is (as I am designing it now) a falling block, 22K hornet.

As when I was a mfg, licensed all will be serial numbered, name and address stamped. I may get my MFG ffl back again, I dunno.
Ok ... I'll tell you what I got here on the complete plans.

The slide center section is on the back of the cover letter.

Then a full page with the frame at full sized with the frame details on the back.

Next the exploded diagram and parts list with the completed slide assembly on the back including firing pin placement.

After that the barrel detail page with sample variations for barrel on back.


Last Slide Section Right detail with Slide Section Left detail on the back.

So five pages total front and back.
 
Thanks, I'll have to submerge into the shop and check. It's pretty simple, also 1:1 scale drawings. Guns not rocket science or tolerances. Simple. Looks fun though. Like some of the variants like the diamond plate one!
 

Forum List

Back
Top